Wednesday, June 18, 2014

New York May 27-31

May 27, Tuesday.  Had made arrangements for accessible taxi to take us to Garwick Airport which was more than an hour away. from hotel in London.  Got to see a different part of the city and along the Thames for quite a while.  Rainy of course.  Easily made it to IcelandAir desk.  Had to go through customs and they confiscated Jack’s tools for scooter, etc. Jack had to have scooter scanned and mirror to look underneath. IcelandAir very helpful. Flight to Rejkavik Iceland was only 2 hours I think.  The airport was jam packed with many planes departing.  I was randomly selected for security check pat down.  Jack led to plane without me. Great plane and listened to movies, etc. all the way to Newark Airport. Total trip 10 hours although 5 hours on the clock. Again with customs when we got to NY.  Very long walks but nice red cap (don’t call them that any more) helping us. Our big suitcase had opened--zipper split but easy to fix and nothing lost.  Very difficult time with taxi. Finally got cabbie who would agree to take us to hotel and ended up helpful.  Had to dismantle scooter.  Arrived at Warwick Hotel a little hassled.  Great doorman and everyone helpful though.  Old hotel built by William Randolph Hearst for his paramour, Marion  Davies.  Recently renovated.  Great rooms, great bar, so-so restaurant.  Just went to bar and had a WONDERFUL hamburger!  And to bed after a very long day.
JACK SEZ:   I was not concerned when Kas was taken away while I boarded.  I had previously ascertained that tales of Icelandic air stewardesses are still true and at least one of the matured group gave me considerable attention including some calming strokes along my back.  Icelandic Air also has an innovative system to allow purchase of rather tasty snacks.
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May 28, Wednesday.  Didn’t want to do Warwick breakfast buffet so crossed street to the Hilton.  Also buffet but they had a coffee stand with sweets, etc.  It was OK.  Then decided just to walk to Times Square, etc. – kind of roaming the area rather than taking city tour.  Just needed to chill a little.  Stopped into the NYC Public Library.  Just beautiful and very busy.  Made it to Grand Central Station Oyster House.  I just loved it.  Had clam/oyster roll.  Jack had oysters on the half shelf assortment.  More walking, then taxi to Lincoln Center for New York City Ballet.  Compared to Royal Ballet, only so-so I thought.  First was Concerto Barocco - Balanchine to Bach.  Then Other Dances which was Chopin music.  Then Neverwhere (black leathery and fancy lighting things going on) and Who Cares? which again was Balanchine to Gershwin that was supposed to remind the audience of NYC (according to the program).  I thought the London performers were just better at dancing and interpreting.  
May 29, Thursday. Breakfast at the hotel. Problematic for my honey bunny.  Toast not toasted, eggs got cold, etc. etc.  Then walked to Museum of Modern Art just up the street.  They have great audio tour and can take pictures on the device that are then sent to you.  Unfortunately, I can't open it now to get pictures.  I love this museum.  Just great and they had a Frank Lloyd Wright exhibit that was really good.  Rested, then Russian Tea Room, which was empty.  I had herring and I think we both had stroganoff.  Easy walk to Walter Kerr Theater for Gentlemen's Guide to Love and Death.  We were in the third row.  I didn’t get it.  It was remake of an old movie I remember that I think Alec Guinness starred in.  However, it did win the Tony for best new play a week or so later.  Then back to hotel.

JACK SEZ:   Rusky Tea Room pissed me off.  We had reluctantly accepted 4:30 reservations--way too early--because it was our last night and was on wife's bucket list--plus, I travel by scooter & was relatively convenient.  Got there to find one other table occupied.  In hour plus, while we were there, never more than 20% full.  So you sit there feeling like chump.  Still, the re-opened room is lush, service good but not #1--that mostly reflects fact that maitre 'd walked past us 6 times while patrolling empty room.  Never, stopped to inquire of us.

FOOD:  Good, but..........Wanted to test something Russian so had beef stroganoff.  Got piece of steamed "soupmeat" on top of well done sauce with some noodles.  BUT YOU CAN'T STEAM BEEF...........so stringy and dry. Very long time since my last visit to Tea Room.  Suspect it is now more about tourists.  As result, we came to Gentlemen's with that added taint.  All told, just too much for a Gentleman to overcome.  Obviously very clever libretto, lyrics, staging, performances.  One distraction from sitting so close, we were able to see one actor who often spewed spit when doing the accent.  Thankfully we were not in center.  In the end, Gentlemen's was just to damm precious.  I think all that cleverness plays to the theater insiders, which accounts for good reviews and awards.
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May 30, Friday. Discovered Rue 57 on our way to Central Park.  What a great place for service and food.  Not cheap but it was good.  Headed to visitor center in the park which was closed so we didn’t have our bearings but just great day to be in the park.  The Arsenal is center for the conservancy and other administrative city things with little exhibit hall.  See pictures of knitted animals by Ruth Marshall which is called Closely Knit .  Made our way to Tavern on the Green.  Had great drink while we waited and nice lunch.  Mushroom soup with truffle oil swirl was yum.  Walked along different streets back to hotel.  Had light soup and wonderful grilled cheese in the bar.  I think Jack just shared.
 JACK SEZ:  Rue 57 is what you should find almost everywhere in big city--but don't--a well managed bistro with careful service and well crafted foods.  Also, like many where real estate is very expensive, they serve from a basement kitchen--every scrap of food is carried by runners up 14 steps (I counted).  That often slows service and with things like breakfast may make it very difficult to get hot food.  Not so here, they had lots of runners.  Service was very fast, even to regular setup and always hot.
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May 31, Saturday. Checked bags, breakfast at Rue 57 and then we decided to head towards the UN.  Didn’t make it but beautiful day for just roaming the streets which were not very busy where we were.  Very nice ending to our NYC experience.  Had arranged in advance for accessible taxi to LaGuardia.  Jack had found this webpage dedicated to this.  Bell captain didn’t know anything about it.  When I called down to tell them about it, the weekend guy, said oh yes, he knew??  Anyway, not as perfect as it sounds.  I think Jack’s particular scooter throws people.  Young cab driver, very nervous about the whole thing.  Jack had to stay in scooter because not enough room and it wasn't tied down.  It was more than driver could handle.  Lots of confusion but only 20 minute ride to LaGuardia.  Airport is no great shakes, pretty small.  Nice enough to sit outside while we waited though.  Finally, on our way home with no hitches.
 JACK SEZ:  Thankfully, ride to airport was short while I hung on for dear life.  Although cab was specially outfitted, cabbie did not understand how to use the tie downs or even how to load the cab.  I finally agreed to ride the scooter which was free to move with acceleration, braking, etc.  To offset, I took the seat belts from two sides and wrapped them around handlebars.  That threw cabbie into a tizzie because he was afraid I'd break them and he'd have to pay.
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CONCLUSION:  definitely a wonderful trip with only a very few disappointments.  Would love to spend a lot more time in Scotland, go back to York and maybe commute to London from there to spend more time in museums.  Wish I knew when things were less crowded. - probably never.  New York City requires a lot more time.  I think I would do it in sections.  We spent our time in mid town, next downtown, etc.  So much to do there.  Another cruise is not at the top of our list.  The scooter presented some challenges with more people helpful than not.  We forget how uneven and hilly it is beyond Florida's borders.  We had some great meals, bottles of wine and some really not so good coffee and meat.  We enjoyed great ballet and theater and learned a lot from city tours and museums.  What else could you ask for.  Take a peek at the pictures. Link sent separately.

London May 22-26 Left on 5/27

May 22 Thursday. Train from York to London.  Arrived about 7PM at the Kings Crossing Station.  Seemed to be on the edge of town but we couldn’t tell.  Didn’t see city skyline from train as we approached London.  Not much help available but we managed to get to taxi line(s).  It was hard to tell what the system was.  Seemed too willing to ignore us.  Finally taxi that appeared to think we were next in line.  Reluctant until we said we were going to Trafalgar Square for hotel. He did not have screw driver to lower the taxi ramp.  Jack had to provide his.  Some struggles because just not familiar, we held up line.
Not that far to hotel.  Club Quarters on Northumberland Avenue at Trafalgar Square.  Had lift in middle of front steps for wheelchairs.  Gorgeous lobby with bar/ restaurant right up front.  Also had a upscale pizza restaurant.  Room was a little tight but very nice and great view!  Just went down to the bar for great drinks and munchies.
JACK SEZ:  This is yet another RR hotel modernized.  Club Quarters is interesting idea offering Members hotels in US & UK. http://clubquarters.com/about
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May 23 Friday.  Got an early start.  Can’t believe what a great location!  Stopped at place for breakfast just a couple doors down.  So-so, kind of like a Denny’s and it is a chain.  Very slow service.  Another block and we were across Trafalgar Square and at tour bus office.  Turns out we were in time for walking tour to see changing of the guard.  Didn’t know exactly what walking tour meant, but it really turned out great.  Quite a big group to keep together for quite a long walk.  These groupings do help to spread out the crowds a little.  Great guide. Sights along the way, but started things at St. James Palace and followed “troops” along to Buckingham Palace.  Packed with people.  Guide helped Jack lift scooter up a few steps to the viewing area.  If he stood up on scooter, he could see over everyone's heads. After a while the guide was moving the group somewhere for something.  We said we were going to stay.  When we were ready to leave later, realized there were steps at BOTH ends of place we were.  Jack randomly selected young, strong looking guy to get the scooter down the steps.  We then walked back to Trafalgar Square.  Decided to do museums there.  Very confusing trying to make our way to elevators and main restaurant in the Royal Art Museum.  Frustrating.  Coffee shop guy told us food in the cafĂ© was the same thing so went there.  Beautiful and great meal.  Seemed to struggle with Bloody Mary request.  Started with yummy asparagus in lemony sauce with tiny potatoes.  I had gnocchi in more lemon butter and Jack had maybe lamb??     I was told not take pictures of the help. Don’t know what that was all about.   We did just a little more of this museum but I think we were too tired.   After lunch went to Portrait Galley.  Had to go through side door, not very inviting.  Again think we were tired. Meant to go back but didn't make it.

May 24, Saturday.  Able to get one of the 3 tour route buses right in front of hotel.  Just made the rounds.   Went to hotel to rest and for dinner before going to play. Can't remember what we had to eat at all but it was good and a beautiful restaurant.   Able to easily walk to theater near Charing Cross in West End.  It was “Handbaggers” written by a woman about what “might” have transpired between Queen Elizabeth and Margaret Thatcher’s weekly meetings over 11 years.  2 women playing them at the time, 2 other women playing them as older and reminiscing, and 2 guys who played a variety of roles including Nancy Reagan and Thatcher’s husband.  Many jokes that the Brits got and we didn’t.  BUT it was really good.  Had ice cream at the interval that they sell in little cups from a cold box hanging around the neck of the guy standing in front of the stage.  Easily walked back to hotel. Think we had pizza in hotel restaurant this night.  Italian was the first language for everyone.  Could not get bartender to understand martini and manhattan.  Vermouth was not a word he understood.  A full day.
 JACK SEZ: No suprise that hotel had "Pizza" restautrant that turned out to be full scale Italian restaurant.  BIG SUPRISE, that staff mostly spoke Italian!  Tried to order Martini.  Barman came out could not understand what Vermouth is--although Sweet is Italian.  Settled for Vodka neat.
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May 25, Sunday.   Beautiful day and Jack was right – need to do the Thames boat ride.  Easy walk from hotel to the Thames, BUT, there was a diabetes research race fundraiser.  Unable to cross street.  Had to walk along the race to Parliament.  Then told to go into the Underground and take the tunnel to the dock which we did.  Thank goodness we had expedited ticket with the tour bus ticket to get through the crowds.  Great trip, lots of crowds everywhere - finally some sun I think was major factor.  After the boat ride, made our way to a great little pub.  Guy explained our problems with Bloody Marys.  Have to ask specifically for “full” otherwise it is just tomato juice and vodka – kind of yucky  without the spices and trimmings.  Then on to Westminster which is very close. No pictures inside.  York is better I think but royalty and other famous persons buried here.  So crowded.  Can’t take pictures because no one would move.  They give free audio tours. I think they are to keep the crowds moving.  The cathedral is something however.  Queen Elizabeth I buried  on one side and Queen Mary on the other, Coronation Chair, Poets Corner – wow.  Then walked up this street looking for coffee.  Lead to a department store and then to a tobacco store where Jack got Cuban cigars.  Yum!  Then walk back to hotel.  Great day.  Dinner in hotel restaurant.  Good but not memorable.  Don't remember what we ate.  Very nice room.   Wanted to go to Sherlock Holmes pub across the street one night but sooooo crowded. Bus tour guide had recommended it. Another full day.
JACK SEZ: If you are ever going to be awestruck, it will surely be Westminster Abby with Parliament next door.  The weight of history is almost palpable.  Tidbit--last major reconstruction of Parliament (completed about 1470) was 1910.  Some of the giant oak timbers needed replacement but they were unable to find trees more that 2-300 years old.  Finally, they check the estate where the original timbers had been harvested.  NO PROBLEM, when originals were cut, new oaks were planted in anticipation of need for replacement.  So they were ready to cut after 600 years growth.  Only the English and probably only a system with protected nobility can produce such results.
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May 26, Monday.  Took a different tour bus to get to Victoria and Albert Museum.  It’s wonderful.  Had a great day looking at a lot of stuff for a couple of hours. Great section on the theater arts (costumes, set design) and incredible tapestries.  Rested and dressed up for our final night in the UK.  Taxi to Royal Opera House for ballet.  What can I say.  One of the highlights of the  trip.  Had dinner in the Balconies which is the restaurant in what used to be Covenant Gardens (as in My Fair Lady).  We had to place our orders when we made the reservation while still in Tampa.  Dinner before the ballet (cod and bellini for me, lamb for Jack). Jack ordered martini when we got there.  Had to settle for vodka on the rocks.  Then dessert at the first interval (lemon pavlova for me and chocolate for Jack), and after dinner drinks at the second interval (drambuie for Jack, I think I passed so I wouldn't pass out).  The ballet was breathtaking.  Seranade was the first - Balanchine, Sweet Violets was second (based on Jack the Ripper, the bed should have been a principal in the ballet, and then DGV Danse a grande Vitesse.  I can't even begin to describe.  It literally took your breath away - fast paced, drums, Minimalist music and a metaphor for movement (think trains) according to the program.  Just wonderful.
JACK SEZ: Lest I forget later.  We had chance to compare a few days later when we attended NYC Ballet.  Would have been wonderful if we had not seen Royal Ballet just before.  Royal had better program and --to my inexpert eyes--better talent.  That may be because each of the three acts at Royal was performed by different ballet company.  I know little about ballet, just watch with same fascination that comes from staring at a fire.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

York May 21 Wed and May 22 Thurs

Jack sez: Left Edinburgh early for short train ride to York.  Got assist in Edinburgh by hotel porter who went to train with us as arranged with concierge.  He was very helpful but station personnel were rather indifferent.  We could have used more assistance.  Here and other places they seem to take attitude that they know when/where to go for train.  No reason to share that with dolt on a scooter.
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The Royal York Hotel is literally in the train station.  Walk around corner from platforms and you are at the back door.  Not easily accessible.  Very old hotel but nice.  Some renovation.  Got settled and decided to just walk out on our own.  The train museum was right next door so did that.  Really, really good.  The largest one in Europe or the world or something.  All of these royal train cars, etc.  Enjoyed that.  Then walked to the old town but too late for the York Minster.  Found a great little bistro for dinner.  I had baked fish and jack had beef yorkshire pudding. Huge servings of veggies.
JACK SEZ:  (big flat "pudding" bowl filled with stew). Probably invented by Vietnamese chef.  Very good.
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May 22  Went back to York Minster.  It is just phenomenal.  The museum underneath is mind blowing.  Constantine was made emperor of Roman empire on the site when it was a Roman outpost, Vikings there, etc. etc.  In addition to the cathedral itself.  Beautiful, beautiful.  Rainy so we headed to what we thought was another museum but it was the library.  Jack waited in cafe while I roamed streets for new watch.  Loved it here.  Would also come back to spend more time.
JACK SEZ:   York Minister among highest rated medieval buildings and largest cathedrals in Europe.  The new excavations add a lot to understanding.  In the modern vein of advertising/name recognition; I have decided that the best investment is to die in 1700's get buried in Cathedral and enjoy advertising for 6 or 7 hundred years.  No idea what contribution gets you in, but still big value.  I noticed a couple little "altars," really shelves in the museum underneath that were donated as late as '80s.  No docent seemed to have any idea how that family pulled it off, but I am sure the collection box was part of the process.
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Then to hotel to pick up bags and onto train.  I had gone over the day before to confirm the assistance needed for the rest of the trip.  Didn't matter.  Rudest anywhere was at the York station in terms of helping.  And it was, as we expected, a busy train because it is so close to London. But we made it. I would come back to York without hesitation. Short ride to London's Kings Crossing Station.

JACK SEZ:   Only minutes to train time (& they don't linger in station) but person who was to assist us to train had not appeared despite repeated promises he was on his way.  I finally parked in front of desk of person who appeared in charge.  He simple said help was on its way.  Then continued chat with staff member hanging out.  I sensed it was some internal spat.  Asked what track?  Turned out to be 100 feet away.  So I said, "Any reason we can't go there ourselves."  Answer, "No."  No apology, no explanation.  On the platform, you have to board cars for your destination.  Ours proved to be almost farthest.  We waited there.  Couple minutes before train arrived, guy came trundling the ramp needed for me.  Although I was obviously the only one it was for, he made no contact with me, just waited for train.  Think there is some kind of game between station personnel and train staff.   There is a ramp on every train but sometimes station brings ramp.  Maybe station has to provide ramp to board and train uses theirs for exit.  Always seems to a bit of mystery.

Edinburgh May 19,20 (Mon and Tues)

Fun that doorman and concierge are in kilts at the hotel.

May 19:  Breakfast in hotel's Hadrian cafe was disappointing.  They really push buffets which are just too hard with canes and too much to eat and about $30.  We ordered from menu but think they served us from buffet rather than cooked fresh.

JACK SEZ:   This buffet or menu problem proved to be consistent even when we got to NYC. I may explore it after blog is published.
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Did our usual city tour. Just a block walk to get to it.  Guy playing bagpipes to entertain the tourists.  One tour line refused to board the scooter.

Very, very old city. Again, love the architecture. Even more blackened buildings. Can't clean because old sandstone is so fragile and soot is holding it together.  Funny that "new" side of Edinburgh was built in 1700s as opposed to 1300s on the old side.  Just imagine! I love this place.  Have to come back.

JACK SEZ:   For me, in same way as Glasgow, I just love to look at old detailed buildings and see how they are used now.
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Got off bus at the castle and took a break for lunch.  Great little pub.  Waiter was Polish.  It is the  largest ethnic group next to the Scots, then Pakistanis. Eastern Europeans also big deal in London.  Immigration a big, hot issue as is Scotland independence from England. Vote in the fall.  Anyway, consider that meal in the pub was my best.  Sausages, mashed potatoes and peas.  Just hit my switch.

Then the climb.  The castle is built out of this very high mountain - Castle Hill.  Very steep medieval streets with cobblestones to get up to it but Jack made it to the entry gate (the castle is still a fort). There, they had a van meet us.  Boarded the scooter and took us through this tunnel in the mountain used for supplies, etc as well as accessibility.  The tunnel lead to the very top of the castle hill and then we made our way down.  Going against the crowd needless to say.  Memorial to Scottish soldiers, the chamber of Mary, Queen of Scots, etc, Scottish crown jewels among other things. All very impressive and spectacular views.  Hard for Jack to get into the small places but they were very accommodating. Would probably do audio tour next time.  I should have gone to main entrance so we had our bearings better.
JACK SEZ:   Braking on downhill, slippery cobblestones is a concern.  Not for me but for the folks in front of me who decide to stop.  People don't have stoplights.  By now, I have learned to watch their feet because a turn of the foot is the first indicator of change of direction.  Other hand, no one seems to worry about getting hit.  My chant on the ship and later is TIRES DON'T MIND TOES--BUT TOES DON'T LIKE TIRES.  Up this point, I only ran over toes once --excluding Catherine,  She often holds doors. Usually stands on wrong side and was nipped a few times.
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Made our way down the castle very carefully.  Then just kept on going right down the Royal Mile that goes directly to Holyrood House, which leads to the Queen's castle at the other end.  Unable to get in because Prince Edward there for some ceremony. If the royal family there, no visitors.  Great downhill walk, lots and lots of touristy shops and cafes, lots of  locals.  We made it all the way across bridge that lead right to hotel.  Pooped to say the least but had a little rest and only going to Number One for dinner.  It's 5 star Michelin rated restaurant in the hotel.  Very posh and pricey.  Just not my kind of place.  More about the way it looks than the way it tastes I think.  Very well presented but just didn't hit our switch.  Maybe too tired.  My duck and Jack's beef not our thing.  Lots of amuse bouche, etc.
JACK SEZ:   I may also discuss this later in detail.  I consider it a place where object is to showoff the chef--not the food, e.g. Kas duck plate was an extravaganza with several versions of duck.  Problem only one even tasted like duck.  To much to explain, but my steak had been attacked by chef in various ways--including horizontal slicing, that defeated my expectations.
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May 20 Tues.  Walked to the royal art museum which was simply fabulous and so beautiful.  So much good stuff, red tapestry walls in some rooms.  Just loved it.  Had a little break at cafe overlooking the park that was between hotel and museum.  Jack taking to hot chocolate rather than deal with coffee that never seems to taste right.  Funny, my sister and I did Europe tour in early 70s and our complaint was bad coffee and bad beef.  That hasn't changed.
JACK SEZ:   They make "American" coffee cup-by-cup with and espresso machine--never works.  Beef is not quality we are used to.  ALSO, they simply do not broil any meat.  Comes out more like poached than broiled.
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We then walked to Portrait Museum which is another beautiful building.  Only so many kings, queens, etc. that we can take and I can't keep straight BUT there was a photography exhibit of portraits that was phenomenal.We like just roaming city streets and seeing what turns up. May miss stuff that way but also see some things that aren't on the city tour.  Made it back to hotel easily for another "nap" after a stop in department store to get Jack long-sleeved wool v-neck.  His sweater vest is not cutting it.  He put on both with the coat I told him was too heavy to take! Also dropped into a few other places.

Got theater tickets for "Pressure" from concierge.  Excellent play, very nice theater. Sat in a box at back of main floor. Lots of space reserved for handicapped.  Play about meteorologist advising Eisenhower on D-Day.  Very good true story.  He was Scottish of course.

Had sent out laundry (very expensive) that was returned in gift box with tissue paper. Packed up to get ready to leave.  Would spend more time here definitely.  Felt we just skimmed the surface of Edinburgh.
JACK SEZ:   Definitely enjoyable.  Laundry, here and other upscale places is so expensive that it would  probably be cheaper to buy the socks and undies that I wear.


Kyle to Edinburgh May 18

Another great train ride.  Changed trains in Inverness with no problems. About 7 hours for the trip.  Weather was "slightly" better.  Could not believe we saw snow.  Looks different on the east side of Scotland.  I would definitely come back and just do Scotland.

Would like to spend more time in the northern outskirts of Edinburgh.  Arrived at train station with very pleasant lady waiting for us.  However, the lift was broken so she took the big suitcase up the escalator at the platform and I went with Jack up this very, very steep ramp that is for cars to get into the train station. It was quite the climb but the scooter made it with Jack's good skills.  Luckily, the hotel was right next door!

JACK SEZ:  Balmoral was built as a "railway" hotel.  It is a spectacular, landmark building, now owned and operated by one most upscale chains.  Service is good to the point of overwhelming.  I picked it because almost perfect location for me to explore Edinburgh.
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The Balmoral Hotel which was our big splurge and worth it.  Because it was the long way round, "Jaci" the train greeter, walked back to the station to met us,  took the other bag from me, and took us right to doorman who she had taken the big bag to. So nice and the kind of service you would expect when you have special needs.  Excellent service at front desk and they brought us step stool (from IKEA I think) so we could get into tub.  Another one of those very high ones.  A little tired, so we just ordered room service. Excellent start with onion soup and club sandwich and an order of creamed cauliflower for me.  Club sandwich  has become our go-to dining choice.  Beautiful, large room.  Sean Connery was host at ceremony when hotel reopened so big picture of him in Casino Royale in the bathroom.  He's a big deal here. Unpacked and to bed.

Glasgow to Kyle on May 17, Saturday

Got an early start so we were early for the train but fun to sit and watch people.  We like to be early because you never know with scooter etc.  Easy to arrange for taxi to pick us up.  Very short ride and no traffic on weekend in Glasgow. Left from Queen Street Station.

So we are off.  Touted as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world - and it is.  What we could see of it.  Very stormy weather.  Did the best I could on moving train and rainy, steamy windows for pictures.  Nice train.  They are all clean and comfortable.  I think it was about 5 hour trip to Mallaig which is beyond Ft. William which is the biggest city in the northwest corner of Scotland.   Some people on the train seemed to be locals going there for Saturday shopping, others on their way to Skye.  Although I didn't get pictures, there were hiking trails with a lot of people on them despite the weather that we saw from the train.  Also travelers on the roads near the train.
JACK SEZ--These are a hardy lot.  Hikers in "mist" far from any road.  Bikers everywhere--including on trains, which are designed to store 2/3 bikes per car.

This was Jack's big adventure because he didn't want to just do a return trip to Glasgow and on to Edinburgh which is just an hour further.  Sooooo, he found out there was a ferry terminal near the train station in Mallaig.  Which was true and would be very convenient IF it were not pouring down rain and very windy.  So we put on our ponchos to cover us and scooter, pulled the bags just a couple blocks to the ferry terminal.  It was packed so we decided to just chill till the next one in about an hour.  Hoping the rain would let up was part of the decision.  It didn't.  Very short (20 minute) ride on a great ferry to Armadale.
JACK SEZ--  Consistent advice was train Glasgow to Ft. William for scenery (4.5 hours), then  (4.5 hours) back to Glasgow for train to Edinburgh (1 hour).  When looking at RR map, branch runs north from Ft., Willian to Mallaig--45 minutes further, then dead end.  Then--maybe 40 mi. as crow flies--is eastern dead end of line from Edinburgh at Kyle of Lochalsh.  Lottsa Loch between.  I assumed there would be ferry.  Expected some kind of six car --no cabin--rig.  In fact, there is extensive ferry service with multi ramp boats and comfort for foot travelers.  We saw 20-30 on foot for most boats.  There is very nice lounge, elevator (need for my scooter) and even some kind of snack bar.  Might be fun one day to do the various linking ferries as impromptu tour.  So, if you can get from Mallaig to Kyle, the train ride is about same--instead of back track you get all new scenery to Edinburgh.  Train arrived in Mallaig about 5.  Departure on Kyle side was 10 a.m.  Ferry almost every hour but seemed best to get as close to next day start as possible.  That meant night in local inn which was plus for adventure.  Nobody seems to think of doing this so it took a lot of emails to taxi ,etc to explain but I got the taxi, etc. worked out. 
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At Armadale, as Jack had planned was taxi waiting for us.  Real nice older guy.  Still raining.  Had to take scooter apart to fit into very small taxi.  Pointed out things on the way to Kyle which is kind of the gateway on the mainland for the Isle of Skye.  Apparently, it is very posh.  Exclusive fly in resorts, some famous chef has a hotel whose name I can't remember.

We got to Kyle which is great little village.  Our B&B, Tingle Creek Inn is on the outskirts of town.  Very, very narrow hilly roads so we could not get back into town with scooter.  But, no worries, they served dinner!  and... had a great bar.  We arranged to just leave scooter and big bag in the taxi since he is picking us up in the AM to get to train station in town.  Then time to relax.
JACK SEZ-- Technically Tingle Creek is in hotel in Erbusaig--maybe 3 miles to Kyle depot--which was part of my problem.  I told taxi we wanted to go to Kyle.  Hard to explain hotel in Erbusaig.  See hamlet and hotel.  http://www.tinglecreek-hotel.co.uk/erbusaig.html

The Tingle Creek is simply wonderful.  Andrew ,the owner with his wife, was just so great in every respect.  Beautiful place, very Scottish.  Wonderful meal, also very Scottish. Had cullen stink soup made of smoked fish and huge pile of  mussels.  Jack had lagostinos (huge) and venison stew. Yum but way too much.  Shared a great bottle of wine AFTER happy hour in which I received the Tingle Creek Hotel whiskey passport.  It listed a sampling of the scotches from different regions of Scotland.  Andrew started me out with the "sweetest" which were wonderful.  I used it afterwards too.  Such a great idea.  The food was great and so was the company.  Couple from England who were fun and an American from Cleveland living in Scotland because of her husband's job who was touring with her visiting US cousin.  Too bad the weather was so bad.
JACK SEZ-- Lagostinos is topic by itself.  Simple answer they are a little lobster related to the spiny lobster of Florida.  Those we see in US come from Chile, but something similar is caught everywhere from North Sea to New Zealand.  Called lagoustines generically.  Those I had were surely local and excellent.  Nephrops norvegicus, is known variously as Norway lobster, Dublin Bay prawn, langoustine or langostino, and scampi.  As side note, they are now very important part of catch because cod are over-fished.  When cod was plentiful, I heard they threw the "shrimp" back.  Wonder how long before we over-fish the lagoustines? Then what?
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Scottish langoustines
Scottish langoustines
Scottish langoustines

Next morning: a little break in the weather.  Taxi on time and on our way to train--early.  Such a nice guy and the Tingle Creek was so great.  I would go back there in a second - even if the weather was so bad.  Isle of Skye is supposed to be great.  Had our tummies full with wonderful breakfast buffet.  They like grilled tomatoes with breakfast in the UK and so do I.  Black pudding--I don't want to know.  Bacon is just terrible everywhere.  Kind of Canadian bacon but fatty and large pieces.  Not exactly ham either.  Train was the easiest to get on yet.  They don't seem to relate well to pigs.

JACK SEZ--  Train depot is on jetty in a loch.  Just dead ends.  I could see that on google map and kept looking for ferry.  I think there used to be a ferry before Skye Bridge which they are proud to show.  Just confirmed my guess.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyle_of_Lochalsh_railway_station. Also learned others discovered Kyle.  In the episode of Great Railway Journeys of the World "Confessions of a Trainspotter" (1980), Michael Palin travels from London to the Kyle of Lochalsh and returns with the railway station's sign.

Glasgow May 14 15, 16

.May 14.  After getting settled, wanted to take it easy so decided just to explore around the flat a little. Found a quickmart (they are all over UK) right done the street for some vodka and coffee.  What else do you need?  Around the corner was Market Square converted into space for restaurants, bars.  Very nice.  Had good burgers and beer in pub.  You have to order at bar and take drinks to table.  They then serve food.  That's everywhere.  Made our way back to the flat and just chilled.  Limited TV.

JACK SEZ:  Pub was Irish (in Glasgow?),  First intro in to service we'd find strange.  In even better places, you are expected to go to the bar to order and pay.  Food is delivered by "Floor Server" who have little interest in further service.  No waiters in evidence.
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I say this means you can't drink TOO much.  You have to be able to get back to the bar, order, pay, and carry a full glass each time.

May 15  Turns out we are in a really great location.  Just a few blocks to the main square - St. George Square I think, Lots of scaffolding, etc because setting up for the Commonwealth Games in a few weeks.  Apparently a very big deal.  Easy access for on and off city tour.  Very nice people who wanted to be helpful rather than had to be helpful.  I think people are just more unfamiliar with wheelchairs/scooters.  It's not flat Florida so you don't see as many perhaps.  Often heard they were afraid of damaging scooter or themselves.  Also, Jack's looks different so that's another issue.
Great tour of city.  I really like Glasgow.  Would spend more time in future to focus on industralists from late 19th c.  I love that era in history-- industrial revolution etc.  A lot of those guys were Scottish and a lot of it happened out of Glasgow.  Before that shipbuilding, textiles, etc.  They are kind of vague about Scots involvement in sending slaves out and raw materials in.   When I met people and said I liked Glasgow, I kind of got a dead silence.  Apparently there are very bad sections of the city but we didn't see them.  Also don't know what that means to them.  The Polish are the second largest ethnic group in Scotland, so it can't be that the Poles are any trouble, right?!?

We also didn't focus much on MacIntosh, their big deal designer/architect.  Very hard to get to because of hills etc.  After we got home, learned the school had got fire.  Too bad.  We did see a lot however, old stuff, neighborhoods, and the new.  Beautiful Clyde River.  Had lunch at Brown's on the main square.  Too early to be seated so bar was OK with us.  Limited menu so got cheese plate with wonderful cheeses and bread.  Then too full to eat lunch.

Spent quite a bit of time at Riverside Museum.  All about transportation.  Just great and won award for Museum of the Year.  Lots and lots of stuff. (see pix).  Can't remember if we ate dinner or just went back to flat and pooped out.

JACK SEZ:   Museum new in 2011, is LOADED with old cars, trucks, motorcycles. I would be happy just to stare at the fully restored 1934 Bentley Sedanca Convertible Coupe near entrance.  Kas will have pix--or I'll send her back.  Example at http://www.charlescrail.com/inventory/179-1934-bentley-3-1-2-litre-fixed-head-sedanca-coupe-by-barker.  One we saw is better.  Bikers may like Docati Monster among 60 - 70 others.
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May 16  Tried for breakfast at Brown's since they make big deal of advertising it, but they were closed because of no gas or something.  Ended up in big hotel next to train station.  Buffet only, not very good. Hotel undergoing renovation for Commonwealth Games. Our flat is even in more convenient place than we thought.  Then onto bus again to get off at Kelvingrove which is major museum (8000 things). Just a gorgeous building in and outside.  Eclectic collection of "lots of stuff".  We couldn't quite figure out the plan for where they put things.  Everything from mummies to modern art.  Were able to listen to the organ recital in the main hall.  Nice little respite.  Seems like collections of the rich industralists that were donated or something. But the focus is Scotland but primarily late 19th c. but there is also a Dali and ancient Egyptian stuff. Of course the expression heads hanging in the one gallery were really fun.  The Glasgow Boys were an important group of artists - like the impressionists in France who all knew each other.   There was a very strange smell from the cafe near the gift shop.  By the way all museums in the UK are free entry.

JACK SEZ:   Kelvingrove museum only recently reopened after couple years renovation.  Think they intend to group things to be more related, maybe understood in popular manner--possibly to accent relation to Scotland.  Loaded but somewhat puzzling.  Impressive entrance is 3 flights of steps. Took me couple blocks, round about, to get to ramps that led to handicap lift.
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So pooped out again.  Just went back to the pub for a bite, finished laundry, packed.
May 17. Left early by a different train station for one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.