Wednesday, June 18, 2014

New York May 27-31

May 27, Tuesday.  Had made arrangements for accessible taxi to take us to Garwick Airport which was more than an hour away. from hotel in London.  Got to see a different part of the city and along the Thames for quite a while.  Rainy of course.  Easily made it to IcelandAir desk.  Had to go through customs and they confiscated Jack’s tools for scooter, etc. Jack had to have scooter scanned and mirror to look underneath. IcelandAir very helpful. Flight to Rejkavik Iceland was only 2 hours I think.  The airport was jam packed with many planes departing.  I was randomly selected for security check pat down.  Jack led to plane without me. Great plane and listened to movies, etc. all the way to Newark Airport. Total trip 10 hours although 5 hours on the clock. Again with customs when we got to NY.  Very long walks but nice red cap (don’t call them that any more) helping us. Our big suitcase had opened--zipper split but easy to fix and nothing lost.  Very difficult time with taxi. Finally got cabbie who would agree to take us to hotel and ended up helpful.  Had to dismantle scooter.  Arrived at Warwick Hotel a little hassled.  Great doorman and everyone helpful though.  Old hotel built by William Randolph Hearst for his paramour, Marion  Davies.  Recently renovated.  Great rooms, great bar, so-so restaurant.  Just went to bar and had a WONDERFUL hamburger!  And to bed after a very long day.
JACK SEZ:   I was not concerned when Kas was taken away while I boarded.  I had previously ascertained that tales of Icelandic air stewardesses are still true and at least one of the matured group gave me considerable attention including some calming strokes along my back.  Icelandic Air also has an innovative system to allow purchase of rather tasty snacks.
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May 28, Wednesday.  Didn’t want to do Warwick breakfast buffet so crossed street to the Hilton.  Also buffet but they had a coffee stand with sweets, etc.  It was OK.  Then decided just to walk to Times Square, etc. – kind of roaming the area rather than taking city tour.  Just needed to chill a little.  Stopped into the NYC Public Library.  Just beautiful and very busy.  Made it to Grand Central Station Oyster House.  I just loved it.  Had clam/oyster roll.  Jack had oysters on the half shelf assortment.  More walking, then taxi to Lincoln Center for New York City Ballet.  Compared to Royal Ballet, only so-so I thought.  First was Concerto Barocco - Balanchine to Bach.  Then Other Dances which was Chopin music.  Then Neverwhere (black leathery and fancy lighting things going on) and Who Cares? which again was Balanchine to Gershwin that was supposed to remind the audience of NYC (according to the program).  I thought the London performers were just better at dancing and interpreting.  
May 29, Thursday. Breakfast at the hotel. Problematic for my honey bunny.  Toast not toasted, eggs got cold, etc. etc.  Then walked to Museum of Modern Art just up the street.  They have great audio tour and can take pictures on the device that are then sent to you.  Unfortunately, I can't open it now to get pictures.  I love this museum.  Just great and they had a Frank Lloyd Wright exhibit that was really good.  Rested, then Russian Tea Room, which was empty.  I had herring and I think we both had stroganoff.  Easy walk to Walter Kerr Theater for Gentlemen's Guide to Love and Death.  We were in the third row.  I didn’t get it.  It was remake of an old movie I remember that I think Alec Guinness starred in.  However, it did win the Tony for best new play a week or so later.  Then back to hotel.

JACK SEZ:   Rusky Tea Room pissed me off.  We had reluctantly accepted 4:30 reservations--way too early--because it was our last night and was on wife's bucket list--plus, I travel by scooter & was relatively convenient.  Got there to find one other table occupied.  In hour plus, while we were there, never more than 20% full.  So you sit there feeling like chump.  Still, the re-opened room is lush, service good but not #1--that mostly reflects fact that maitre 'd walked past us 6 times while patrolling empty room.  Never, stopped to inquire of us.

FOOD:  Good, but..........Wanted to test something Russian so had beef stroganoff.  Got piece of steamed "soupmeat" on top of well done sauce with some noodles.  BUT YOU CAN'T STEAM BEEF...........so stringy and dry. Very long time since my last visit to Tea Room.  Suspect it is now more about tourists.  As result, we came to Gentlemen's with that added taint.  All told, just too much for a Gentleman to overcome.  Obviously very clever libretto, lyrics, staging, performances.  One distraction from sitting so close, we were able to see one actor who often spewed spit when doing the accent.  Thankfully we were not in center.  In the end, Gentlemen's was just to damm precious.  I think all that cleverness plays to the theater insiders, which accounts for good reviews and awards.
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May 30, Friday. Discovered Rue 57 on our way to Central Park.  What a great place for service and food.  Not cheap but it was good.  Headed to visitor center in the park which was closed so we didn’t have our bearings but just great day to be in the park.  The Arsenal is center for the conservancy and other administrative city things with little exhibit hall.  See pictures of knitted animals by Ruth Marshall which is called Closely Knit .  Made our way to Tavern on the Green.  Had great drink while we waited and nice lunch.  Mushroom soup with truffle oil swirl was yum.  Walked along different streets back to hotel.  Had light soup and wonderful grilled cheese in the bar.  I think Jack just shared.
 JACK SEZ:  Rue 57 is what you should find almost everywhere in big city--but don't--a well managed bistro with careful service and well crafted foods.  Also, like many where real estate is very expensive, they serve from a basement kitchen--every scrap of food is carried by runners up 14 steps (I counted).  That often slows service and with things like breakfast may make it very difficult to get hot food.  Not so here, they had lots of runners.  Service was very fast, even to regular setup and always hot.
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May 31, Saturday. Checked bags, breakfast at Rue 57 and then we decided to head towards the UN.  Didn’t make it but beautiful day for just roaming the streets which were not very busy where we were.  Very nice ending to our NYC experience.  Had arranged in advance for accessible taxi to LaGuardia.  Jack had found this webpage dedicated to this.  Bell captain didn’t know anything about it.  When I called down to tell them about it, the weekend guy, said oh yes, he knew??  Anyway, not as perfect as it sounds.  I think Jack’s particular scooter throws people.  Young cab driver, very nervous about the whole thing.  Jack had to stay in scooter because not enough room and it wasn't tied down.  It was more than driver could handle.  Lots of confusion but only 20 minute ride to LaGuardia.  Airport is no great shakes, pretty small.  Nice enough to sit outside while we waited though.  Finally, on our way home with no hitches.
 JACK SEZ:  Thankfully, ride to airport was short while I hung on for dear life.  Although cab was specially outfitted, cabbie did not understand how to use the tie downs or even how to load the cab.  I finally agreed to ride the scooter which was free to move with acceleration, braking, etc.  To offset, I took the seat belts from two sides and wrapped them around handlebars.  That threw cabbie into a tizzie because he was afraid I'd break them and he'd have to pay.
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CONCLUSION:  definitely a wonderful trip with only a very few disappointments.  Would love to spend a lot more time in Scotland, go back to York and maybe commute to London from there to spend more time in museums.  Wish I knew when things were less crowded. - probably never.  New York City requires a lot more time.  I think I would do it in sections.  We spent our time in mid town, next downtown, etc.  So much to do there.  Another cruise is not at the top of our list.  The scooter presented some challenges with more people helpful than not.  We forget how uneven and hilly it is beyond Florida's borders.  We had some great meals, bottles of wine and some really not so good coffee and meat.  We enjoyed great ballet and theater and learned a lot from city tours and museums.  What else could you ask for.  Take a peek at the pictures. Link sent separately.

London May 22-26 Left on 5/27

May 22 Thursday. Train from York to London.  Arrived about 7PM at the Kings Crossing Station.  Seemed to be on the edge of town but we couldn’t tell.  Didn’t see city skyline from train as we approached London.  Not much help available but we managed to get to taxi line(s).  It was hard to tell what the system was.  Seemed too willing to ignore us.  Finally taxi that appeared to think we were next in line.  Reluctant until we said we were going to Trafalgar Square for hotel. He did not have screw driver to lower the taxi ramp.  Jack had to provide his.  Some struggles because just not familiar, we held up line.
Not that far to hotel.  Club Quarters on Northumberland Avenue at Trafalgar Square.  Had lift in middle of front steps for wheelchairs.  Gorgeous lobby with bar/ restaurant right up front.  Also had a upscale pizza restaurant.  Room was a little tight but very nice and great view!  Just went down to the bar for great drinks and munchies.
JACK SEZ:  This is yet another RR hotel modernized.  Club Quarters is interesting idea offering Members hotels in US & UK. http://clubquarters.com/about
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May 23 Friday.  Got an early start.  Can’t believe what a great location!  Stopped at place for breakfast just a couple doors down.  So-so, kind of like a Denny’s and it is a chain.  Very slow service.  Another block and we were across Trafalgar Square and at tour bus office.  Turns out we were in time for walking tour to see changing of the guard.  Didn’t know exactly what walking tour meant, but it really turned out great.  Quite a big group to keep together for quite a long walk.  These groupings do help to spread out the crowds a little.  Great guide. Sights along the way, but started things at St. James Palace and followed “troops” along to Buckingham Palace.  Packed with people.  Guide helped Jack lift scooter up a few steps to the viewing area.  If he stood up on scooter, he could see over everyone's heads. After a while the guide was moving the group somewhere for something.  We said we were going to stay.  When we were ready to leave later, realized there were steps at BOTH ends of place we were.  Jack randomly selected young, strong looking guy to get the scooter down the steps.  We then walked back to Trafalgar Square.  Decided to do museums there.  Very confusing trying to make our way to elevators and main restaurant in the Royal Art Museum.  Frustrating.  Coffee shop guy told us food in the cafĂ© was the same thing so went there.  Beautiful and great meal.  Seemed to struggle with Bloody Mary request.  Started with yummy asparagus in lemony sauce with tiny potatoes.  I had gnocchi in more lemon butter and Jack had maybe lamb??     I was told not take pictures of the help. Don’t know what that was all about.   We did just a little more of this museum but I think we were too tired.   After lunch went to Portrait Galley.  Had to go through side door, not very inviting.  Again think we were tired. Meant to go back but didn't make it.

May 24, Saturday.  Able to get one of the 3 tour route buses right in front of hotel.  Just made the rounds.   Went to hotel to rest and for dinner before going to play. Can't remember what we had to eat at all but it was good and a beautiful restaurant.   Able to easily walk to theater near Charing Cross in West End.  It was “Handbaggers” written by a woman about what “might” have transpired between Queen Elizabeth and Margaret Thatcher’s weekly meetings over 11 years.  2 women playing them at the time, 2 other women playing them as older and reminiscing, and 2 guys who played a variety of roles including Nancy Reagan and Thatcher’s husband.  Many jokes that the Brits got and we didn’t.  BUT it was really good.  Had ice cream at the interval that they sell in little cups from a cold box hanging around the neck of the guy standing in front of the stage.  Easily walked back to hotel. Think we had pizza in hotel restaurant this night.  Italian was the first language for everyone.  Could not get bartender to understand martini and manhattan.  Vermouth was not a word he understood.  A full day.
 JACK SEZ: No suprise that hotel had "Pizza" restautrant that turned out to be full scale Italian restaurant.  BIG SUPRISE, that staff mostly spoke Italian!  Tried to order Martini.  Barman came out could not understand what Vermouth is--although Sweet is Italian.  Settled for Vodka neat.
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May 25, Sunday.   Beautiful day and Jack was right – need to do the Thames boat ride.  Easy walk from hotel to the Thames, BUT, there was a diabetes research race fundraiser.  Unable to cross street.  Had to walk along the race to Parliament.  Then told to go into the Underground and take the tunnel to the dock which we did.  Thank goodness we had expedited ticket with the tour bus ticket to get through the crowds.  Great trip, lots of crowds everywhere - finally some sun I think was major factor.  After the boat ride, made our way to a great little pub.  Guy explained our problems with Bloody Marys.  Have to ask specifically for “full” otherwise it is just tomato juice and vodka – kind of yucky  without the spices and trimmings.  Then on to Westminster which is very close. No pictures inside.  York is better I think but royalty and other famous persons buried here.  So crowded.  Can’t take pictures because no one would move.  They give free audio tours. I think they are to keep the crowds moving.  The cathedral is something however.  Queen Elizabeth I buried  on one side and Queen Mary on the other, Coronation Chair, Poets Corner – wow.  Then walked up this street looking for coffee.  Lead to a department store and then to a tobacco store where Jack got Cuban cigars.  Yum!  Then walk back to hotel.  Great day.  Dinner in hotel restaurant.  Good but not memorable.  Don't remember what we ate.  Very nice room.   Wanted to go to Sherlock Holmes pub across the street one night but sooooo crowded. Bus tour guide had recommended it. Another full day.
JACK SEZ: If you are ever going to be awestruck, it will surely be Westminster Abby with Parliament next door.  The weight of history is almost palpable.  Tidbit--last major reconstruction of Parliament (completed about 1470) was 1910.  Some of the giant oak timbers needed replacement but they were unable to find trees more that 2-300 years old.  Finally, they check the estate where the original timbers had been harvested.  NO PROBLEM, when originals were cut, new oaks were planted in anticipation of need for replacement.  So they were ready to cut after 600 years growth.  Only the English and probably only a system with protected nobility can produce such results.
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May 26, Monday.  Took a different tour bus to get to Victoria and Albert Museum.  It’s wonderful.  Had a great day looking at a lot of stuff for a couple of hours. Great section on the theater arts (costumes, set design) and incredible tapestries.  Rested and dressed up for our final night in the UK.  Taxi to Royal Opera House for ballet.  What can I say.  One of the highlights of the  trip.  Had dinner in the Balconies which is the restaurant in what used to be Covenant Gardens (as in My Fair Lady).  We had to place our orders when we made the reservation while still in Tampa.  Dinner before the ballet (cod and bellini for me, lamb for Jack). Jack ordered martini when we got there.  Had to settle for vodka on the rocks.  Then dessert at the first interval (lemon pavlova for me and chocolate for Jack), and after dinner drinks at the second interval (drambuie for Jack, I think I passed so I wouldn't pass out).  The ballet was breathtaking.  Seranade was the first - Balanchine, Sweet Violets was second (based on Jack the Ripper, the bed should have been a principal in the ballet, and then DGV Danse a grande Vitesse.  I can't even begin to describe.  It literally took your breath away - fast paced, drums, Minimalist music and a metaphor for movement (think trains) according to the program.  Just wonderful.
JACK SEZ: Lest I forget later.  We had chance to compare a few days later when we attended NYC Ballet.  Would have been wonderful if we had not seen Royal Ballet just before.  Royal had better program and --to my inexpert eyes--better talent.  That may be because each of the three acts at Royal was performed by different ballet company.  I know little about ballet, just watch with same fascination that comes from staring at a fire.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

York May 21 Wed and May 22 Thurs

Jack sez: Left Edinburgh early for short train ride to York.  Got assist in Edinburgh by hotel porter who went to train with us as arranged with concierge.  He was very helpful but station personnel were rather indifferent.  We could have used more assistance.  Here and other places they seem to take attitude that they know when/where to go for train.  No reason to share that with dolt on a scooter.
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The Royal York Hotel is literally in the train station.  Walk around corner from platforms and you are at the back door.  Not easily accessible.  Very old hotel but nice.  Some renovation.  Got settled and decided to just walk out on our own.  The train museum was right next door so did that.  Really, really good.  The largest one in Europe or the world or something.  All of these royal train cars, etc.  Enjoyed that.  Then walked to the old town but too late for the York Minster.  Found a great little bistro for dinner.  I had baked fish and jack had beef yorkshire pudding. Huge servings of veggies.
JACK SEZ:  (big flat "pudding" bowl filled with stew). Probably invented by Vietnamese chef.  Very good.
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May 22  Went back to York Minster.  It is just phenomenal.  The museum underneath is mind blowing.  Constantine was made emperor of Roman empire on the site when it was a Roman outpost, Vikings there, etc. etc.  In addition to the cathedral itself.  Beautiful, beautiful.  Rainy so we headed to what we thought was another museum but it was the library.  Jack waited in cafe while I roamed streets for new watch.  Loved it here.  Would also come back to spend more time.
JACK SEZ:   York Minister among highest rated medieval buildings and largest cathedrals in Europe.  The new excavations add a lot to understanding.  In the modern vein of advertising/name recognition; I have decided that the best investment is to die in 1700's get buried in Cathedral and enjoy advertising for 6 or 7 hundred years.  No idea what contribution gets you in, but still big value.  I noticed a couple little "altars," really shelves in the museum underneath that were donated as late as '80s.  No docent seemed to have any idea how that family pulled it off, but I am sure the collection box was part of the process.
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Then to hotel to pick up bags and onto train.  I had gone over the day before to confirm the assistance needed for the rest of the trip.  Didn't matter.  Rudest anywhere was at the York station in terms of helping.  And it was, as we expected, a busy train because it is so close to London. But we made it. I would come back to York without hesitation. Short ride to London's Kings Crossing Station.

JACK SEZ:   Only minutes to train time (& they don't linger in station) but person who was to assist us to train had not appeared despite repeated promises he was on his way.  I finally parked in front of desk of person who appeared in charge.  He simple said help was on its way.  Then continued chat with staff member hanging out.  I sensed it was some internal spat.  Asked what track?  Turned out to be 100 feet away.  So I said, "Any reason we can't go there ourselves."  Answer, "No."  No apology, no explanation.  On the platform, you have to board cars for your destination.  Ours proved to be almost farthest.  We waited there.  Couple minutes before train arrived, guy came trundling the ramp needed for me.  Although I was obviously the only one it was for, he made no contact with me, just waited for train.  Think there is some kind of game between station personnel and train staff.   There is a ramp on every train but sometimes station brings ramp.  Maybe station has to provide ramp to board and train uses theirs for exit.  Always seems to a bit of mystery.

Edinburgh May 19,20 (Mon and Tues)

Fun that doorman and concierge are in kilts at the hotel.

May 19:  Breakfast in hotel's Hadrian cafe was disappointing.  They really push buffets which are just too hard with canes and too much to eat and about $30.  We ordered from menu but think they served us from buffet rather than cooked fresh.

JACK SEZ:   This buffet or menu problem proved to be consistent even when we got to NYC. I may explore it after blog is published.
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Did our usual city tour. Just a block walk to get to it.  Guy playing bagpipes to entertain the tourists.  One tour line refused to board the scooter.

Very, very old city. Again, love the architecture. Even more blackened buildings. Can't clean because old sandstone is so fragile and soot is holding it together.  Funny that "new" side of Edinburgh was built in 1700s as opposed to 1300s on the old side.  Just imagine! I love this place.  Have to come back.

JACK SEZ:   For me, in same way as Glasgow, I just love to look at old detailed buildings and see how they are used now.
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Got off bus at the castle and took a break for lunch.  Great little pub.  Waiter was Polish.  It is the  largest ethnic group next to the Scots, then Pakistanis. Eastern Europeans also big deal in London.  Immigration a big, hot issue as is Scotland independence from England. Vote in the fall.  Anyway, consider that meal in the pub was my best.  Sausages, mashed potatoes and peas.  Just hit my switch.

Then the climb.  The castle is built out of this very high mountain - Castle Hill.  Very steep medieval streets with cobblestones to get up to it but Jack made it to the entry gate (the castle is still a fort). There, they had a van meet us.  Boarded the scooter and took us through this tunnel in the mountain used for supplies, etc as well as accessibility.  The tunnel lead to the very top of the castle hill and then we made our way down.  Going against the crowd needless to say.  Memorial to Scottish soldiers, the chamber of Mary, Queen of Scots, etc, Scottish crown jewels among other things. All very impressive and spectacular views.  Hard for Jack to get into the small places but they were very accommodating. Would probably do audio tour next time.  I should have gone to main entrance so we had our bearings better.
JACK SEZ:   Braking on downhill, slippery cobblestones is a concern.  Not for me but for the folks in front of me who decide to stop.  People don't have stoplights.  By now, I have learned to watch their feet because a turn of the foot is the first indicator of change of direction.  Other hand, no one seems to worry about getting hit.  My chant on the ship and later is TIRES DON'T MIND TOES--BUT TOES DON'T LIKE TIRES.  Up this point, I only ran over toes once --excluding Catherine,  She often holds doors. Usually stands on wrong side and was nipped a few times.
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Made our way down the castle very carefully.  Then just kept on going right down the Royal Mile that goes directly to Holyrood House, which leads to the Queen's castle at the other end.  Unable to get in because Prince Edward there for some ceremony. If the royal family there, no visitors.  Great downhill walk, lots and lots of touristy shops and cafes, lots of  locals.  We made it all the way across bridge that lead right to hotel.  Pooped to say the least but had a little rest and only going to Number One for dinner.  It's 5 star Michelin rated restaurant in the hotel.  Very posh and pricey.  Just not my kind of place.  More about the way it looks than the way it tastes I think.  Very well presented but just didn't hit our switch.  Maybe too tired.  My duck and Jack's beef not our thing.  Lots of amuse bouche, etc.
JACK SEZ:   I may also discuss this later in detail.  I consider it a place where object is to showoff the chef--not the food, e.g. Kas duck plate was an extravaganza with several versions of duck.  Problem only one even tasted like duck.  To much to explain, but my steak had been attacked by chef in various ways--including horizontal slicing, that defeated my expectations.
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May 20 Tues.  Walked to the royal art museum which was simply fabulous and so beautiful.  So much good stuff, red tapestry walls in some rooms.  Just loved it.  Had a little break at cafe overlooking the park that was between hotel and museum.  Jack taking to hot chocolate rather than deal with coffee that never seems to taste right.  Funny, my sister and I did Europe tour in early 70s and our complaint was bad coffee and bad beef.  That hasn't changed.
JACK SEZ:   They make "American" coffee cup-by-cup with and espresso machine--never works.  Beef is not quality we are used to.  ALSO, they simply do not broil any meat.  Comes out more like poached than broiled.
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We then walked to Portrait Museum which is another beautiful building.  Only so many kings, queens, etc. that we can take and I can't keep straight BUT there was a photography exhibit of portraits that was phenomenal.We like just roaming city streets and seeing what turns up. May miss stuff that way but also see some things that aren't on the city tour.  Made it back to hotel easily for another "nap" after a stop in department store to get Jack long-sleeved wool v-neck.  His sweater vest is not cutting it.  He put on both with the coat I told him was too heavy to take! Also dropped into a few other places.

Got theater tickets for "Pressure" from concierge.  Excellent play, very nice theater. Sat in a box at back of main floor. Lots of space reserved for handicapped.  Play about meteorologist advising Eisenhower on D-Day.  Very good true story.  He was Scottish of course.

Had sent out laundry (very expensive) that was returned in gift box with tissue paper. Packed up to get ready to leave.  Would spend more time here definitely.  Felt we just skimmed the surface of Edinburgh.
JACK SEZ:   Definitely enjoyable.  Laundry, here and other upscale places is so expensive that it would  probably be cheaper to buy the socks and undies that I wear.


Kyle to Edinburgh May 18

Another great train ride.  Changed trains in Inverness with no problems. About 7 hours for the trip.  Weather was "slightly" better.  Could not believe we saw snow.  Looks different on the east side of Scotland.  I would definitely come back and just do Scotland.

Would like to spend more time in the northern outskirts of Edinburgh.  Arrived at train station with very pleasant lady waiting for us.  However, the lift was broken so she took the big suitcase up the escalator at the platform and I went with Jack up this very, very steep ramp that is for cars to get into the train station. It was quite the climb but the scooter made it with Jack's good skills.  Luckily, the hotel was right next door!

JACK SEZ:  Balmoral was built as a "railway" hotel.  It is a spectacular, landmark building, now owned and operated by one most upscale chains.  Service is good to the point of overwhelming.  I picked it because almost perfect location for me to explore Edinburgh.
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The Balmoral Hotel which was our big splurge and worth it.  Because it was the long way round, "Jaci" the train greeter, walked back to the station to met us,  took the other bag from me, and took us right to doorman who she had taken the big bag to. So nice and the kind of service you would expect when you have special needs.  Excellent service at front desk and they brought us step stool (from IKEA I think) so we could get into tub.  Another one of those very high ones.  A little tired, so we just ordered room service. Excellent start with onion soup and club sandwich and an order of creamed cauliflower for me.  Club sandwich  has become our go-to dining choice.  Beautiful, large room.  Sean Connery was host at ceremony when hotel reopened so big picture of him in Casino Royale in the bathroom.  He's a big deal here. Unpacked and to bed.

Glasgow to Kyle on May 17, Saturday

Got an early start so we were early for the train but fun to sit and watch people.  We like to be early because you never know with scooter etc.  Easy to arrange for taxi to pick us up.  Very short ride and no traffic on weekend in Glasgow. Left from Queen Street Station.

So we are off.  Touted as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world - and it is.  What we could see of it.  Very stormy weather.  Did the best I could on moving train and rainy, steamy windows for pictures.  Nice train.  They are all clean and comfortable.  I think it was about 5 hour trip to Mallaig which is beyond Ft. William which is the biggest city in the northwest corner of Scotland.   Some people on the train seemed to be locals going there for Saturday shopping, others on their way to Skye.  Although I didn't get pictures, there were hiking trails with a lot of people on them despite the weather that we saw from the train.  Also travelers on the roads near the train.
JACK SEZ--These are a hardy lot.  Hikers in "mist" far from any road.  Bikers everywhere--including on trains, which are designed to store 2/3 bikes per car.

This was Jack's big adventure because he didn't want to just do a return trip to Glasgow and on to Edinburgh which is just an hour further.  Sooooo, he found out there was a ferry terminal near the train station in Mallaig.  Which was true and would be very convenient IF it were not pouring down rain and very windy.  So we put on our ponchos to cover us and scooter, pulled the bags just a couple blocks to the ferry terminal.  It was packed so we decided to just chill till the next one in about an hour.  Hoping the rain would let up was part of the decision.  It didn't.  Very short (20 minute) ride on a great ferry to Armadale.
JACK SEZ--  Consistent advice was train Glasgow to Ft. William for scenery (4.5 hours), then  (4.5 hours) back to Glasgow for train to Edinburgh (1 hour).  When looking at RR map, branch runs north from Ft., Willian to Mallaig--45 minutes further, then dead end.  Then--maybe 40 mi. as crow flies--is eastern dead end of line from Edinburgh at Kyle of Lochalsh.  Lottsa Loch between.  I assumed there would be ferry.  Expected some kind of six car --no cabin--rig.  In fact, there is extensive ferry service with multi ramp boats and comfort for foot travelers.  We saw 20-30 on foot for most boats.  There is very nice lounge, elevator (need for my scooter) and even some kind of snack bar.  Might be fun one day to do the various linking ferries as impromptu tour.  So, if you can get from Mallaig to Kyle, the train ride is about same--instead of back track you get all new scenery to Edinburgh.  Train arrived in Mallaig about 5.  Departure on Kyle side was 10 a.m.  Ferry almost every hour but seemed best to get as close to next day start as possible.  That meant night in local inn which was plus for adventure.  Nobody seems to think of doing this so it took a lot of emails to taxi ,etc to explain but I got the taxi, etc. worked out. 
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At Armadale, as Jack had planned was taxi waiting for us.  Real nice older guy.  Still raining.  Had to take scooter apart to fit into very small taxi.  Pointed out things on the way to Kyle which is kind of the gateway on the mainland for the Isle of Skye.  Apparently, it is very posh.  Exclusive fly in resorts, some famous chef has a hotel whose name I can't remember.

We got to Kyle which is great little village.  Our B&B, Tingle Creek Inn is on the outskirts of town.  Very, very narrow hilly roads so we could not get back into town with scooter.  But, no worries, they served dinner!  and... had a great bar.  We arranged to just leave scooter and big bag in the taxi since he is picking us up in the AM to get to train station in town.  Then time to relax.
JACK SEZ-- Technically Tingle Creek is in hotel in Erbusaig--maybe 3 miles to Kyle depot--which was part of my problem.  I told taxi we wanted to go to Kyle.  Hard to explain hotel in Erbusaig.  See hamlet and hotel.  http://www.tinglecreek-hotel.co.uk/erbusaig.html

The Tingle Creek is simply wonderful.  Andrew ,the owner with his wife, was just so great in every respect.  Beautiful place, very Scottish.  Wonderful meal, also very Scottish. Had cullen stink soup made of smoked fish and huge pile of  mussels.  Jack had lagostinos (huge) and venison stew. Yum but way too much.  Shared a great bottle of wine AFTER happy hour in which I received the Tingle Creek Hotel whiskey passport.  It listed a sampling of the scotches from different regions of Scotland.  Andrew started me out with the "sweetest" which were wonderful.  I used it afterwards too.  Such a great idea.  The food was great and so was the company.  Couple from England who were fun and an American from Cleveland living in Scotland because of her husband's job who was touring with her visiting US cousin.  Too bad the weather was so bad.
JACK SEZ-- Lagostinos is topic by itself.  Simple answer they are a little lobster related to the spiny lobster of Florida.  Those we see in US come from Chile, but something similar is caught everywhere from North Sea to New Zealand.  Called lagoustines generically.  Those I had were surely local and excellent.  Nephrops norvegicus, is known variously as Norway lobster, Dublin Bay prawn, langoustine or langostino, and scampi.  As side note, they are now very important part of catch because cod are over-fished.  When cod was plentiful, I heard they threw the "shrimp" back.  Wonder how long before we over-fish the lagoustines? Then what?
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Scottish langoustines
Scottish langoustines
Scottish langoustines

Next morning: a little break in the weather.  Taxi on time and on our way to train--early.  Such a nice guy and the Tingle Creek was so great.  I would go back there in a second - even if the weather was so bad.  Isle of Skye is supposed to be great.  Had our tummies full with wonderful breakfast buffet.  They like grilled tomatoes with breakfast in the UK and so do I.  Black pudding--I don't want to know.  Bacon is just terrible everywhere.  Kind of Canadian bacon but fatty and large pieces.  Not exactly ham either.  Train was the easiest to get on yet.  They don't seem to relate well to pigs.

JACK SEZ--  Train depot is on jetty in a loch.  Just dead ends.  I could see that on google map and kept looking for ferry.  I think there used to be a ferry before Skye Bridge which they are proud to show.  Just confirmed my guess.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyle_of_Lochalsh_railway_station. Also learned others discovered Kyle.  In the episode of Great Railway Journeys of the World "Confessions of a Trainspotter" (1980), Michael Palin travels from London to the Kyle of Lochalsh and returns with the railway station's sign.

Glasgow May 14 15, 16

.May 14.  After getting settled, wanted to take it easy so decided just to explore around the flat a little. Found a quickmart (they are all over UK) right done the street for some vodka and coffee.  What else do you need?  Around the corner was Market Square converted into space for restaurants, bars.  Very nice.  Had good burgers and beer in pub.  You have to order at bar and take drinks to table.  They then serve food.  That's everywhere.  Made our way back to the flat and just chilled.  Limited TV.

JACK SEZ:  Pub was Irish (in Glasgow?),  First intro in to service we'd find strange.  In even better places, you are expected to go to the bar to order and pay.  Food is delivered by "Floor Server" who have little interest in further service.  No waiters in evidence.
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I say this means you can't drink TOO much.  You have to be able to get back to the bar, order, pay, and carry a full glass each time.

May 15  Turns out we are in a really great location.  Just a few blocks to the main square - St. George Square I think, Lots of scaffolding, etc because setting up for the Commonwealth Games in a few weeks.  Apparently a very big deal.  Easy access for on and off city tour.  Very nice people who wanted to be helpful rather than had to be helpful.  I think people are just more unfamiliar with wheelchairs/scooters.  It's not flat Florida so you don't see as many perhaps.  Often heard they were afraid of damaging scooter or themselves.  Also, Jack's looks different so that's another issue.
Great tour of city.  I really like Glasgow.  Would spend more time in future to focus on industralists from late 19th c.  I love that era in history-- industrial revolution etc.  A lot of those guys were Scottish and a lot of it happened out of Glasgow.  Before that shipbuilding, textiles, etc.  They are kind of vague about Scots involvement in sending slaves out and raw materials in.   When I met people and said I liked Glasgow, I kind of got a dead silence.  Apparently there are very bad sections of the city but we didn't see them.  Also don't know what that means to them.  The Polish are the second largest ethnic group in Scotland, so it can't be that the Poles are any trouble, right?!?

We also didn't focus much on MacIntosh, their big deal designer/architect.  Very hard to get to because of hills etc.  After we got home, learned the school had got fire.  Too bad.  We did see a lot however, old stuff, neighborhoods, and the new.  Beautiful Clyde River.  Had lunch at Brown's on the main square.  Too early to be seated so bar was OK with us.  Limited menu so got cheese plate with wonderful cheeses and bread.  Then too full to eat lunch.

Spent quite a bit of time at Riverside Museum.  All about transportation.  Just great and won award for Museum of the Year.  Lots and lots of stuff. (see pix).  Can't remember if we ate dinner or just went back to flat and pooped out.

JACK SEZ:   Museum new in 2011, is LOADED with old cars, trucks, motorcycles. I would be happy just to stare at the fully restored 1934 Bentley Sedanca Convertible Coupe near entrance.  Kas will have pix--or I'll send her back.  Example at http://www.charlescrail.com/inventory/179-1934-bentley-3-1-2-litre-fixed-head-sedanca-coupe-by-barker.  One we saw is better.  Bikers may like Docati Monster among 60 - 70 others.
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May 16  Tried for breakfast at Brown's since they make big deal of advertising it, but they were closed because of no gas or something.  Ended up in big hotel next to train station.  Buffet only, not very good. Hotel undergoing renovation for Commonwealth Games. Our flat is even in more convenient place than we thought.  Then onto bus again to get off at Kelvingrove which is major museum (8000 things). Just a gorgeous building in and outside.  Eclectic collection of "lots of stuff".  We couldn't quite figure out the plan for where they put things.  Everything from mummies to modern art.  Were able to listen to the organ recital in the main hall.  Nice little respite.  Seems like collections of the rich industralists that were donated or something. But the focus is Scotland but primarily late 19th c. but there is also a Dali and ancient Egyptian stuff. Of course the expression heads hanging in the one gallery were really fun.  The Glasgow Boys were an important group of artists - like the impressionists in France who all knew each other.   There was a very strange smell from the cafe near the gift shop.  By the way all museums in the UK are free entry.

JACK SEZ:   Kelvingrove museum only recently reopened after couple years renovation.  Think they intend to group things to be more related, maybe understood in popular manner--possibly to accent relation to Scotland.  Loaded but somewhat puzzling.  Impressive entrance is 3 flights of steps. Took me couple blocks, round about, to get to ramps that led to handicap lift.
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So pooped out again.  Just went back to the pub for a bite, finished laundry, packed.
May 17. Left early by a different train station for one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.

Arrive Harwich England May 14 and train to Glasgow

It's a short trip across the channel from Brugges to Harwich.  Arrived 4:30 AM.  We chose to take expedited disembark which means we had to carry (wheel) our own luggage.  We were nervous about lines forming like they did for passport check and crowds getting luggage and getting on buses, etc.  So we avoided all that.  Jack had made prior arrangements for taxi to take us from Harwich to Euston train station in London to get train to Glasgow.  Transportation through the ship was either bus to the airport or Victoria Station.

I think we were the first ones off the ship.  Waited just a little while for the taxi so we got an early start - left about 6:30 I think.  Bumper to bumper traffic the entire ride to London.  I admit I may have dozed off a few times.  I think it was about 2 hour ride but worth it for convenience and no worries. Euston Station seems to be in nice part of London but we really didn't know where we were and driver seemed uncertain but got us there.

JACK SEZ: Despite repeated email discussion the Private Car was not designed to accommodate my scooter.  This was one of 3 times we had to disassemble to transport.  Seems silly because almost every London Taxi has ramp to load chair/scooter. This is supposed to be transport service from ship to other transportation.  Driver was very nice but when he got close to station had to ask other cabby how to find entrance.
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Nice train station and about an hour till the first train to Glasgow.  I think that was about 7 hour ride.  Very accommodating staff and lounge for the people who need assistance.  Once I got organized, I was able to pull the smaller suitcase with 2 wheels with one hand while sliding along the one with 4 wheels along side.  It is much easier with 4 wheels and since soap bottle broke in small suitcase, new one will be with 4 wheels.

I can't remember much about train ride.  They all have trolley service with sandwiches, drinks, etc.  Jack really got into the cheddar onion potato chips.  They are good.  Egg and mayo sandwich is very popular-- our egg salad. I think we were loopey from being in motion for 15 days.  Ship, taxi, train.  I forgot to say I used patches to avoid sea sickness.  I didn't get sick so I assume they worked although I was aware of the ship's rocking often, especially in bed.

JACK SEZ: Trains are well equipped to load, park scooters.  But often seemed to be confusion as to who set up ramp to load--sometimes station person, sometimes train staff.  No point in paying first class because you will have to stay in car where scooter is parked.  All toilets are handicapped with curved rotating door.  Sink is set in hole in wall.  Place hands on right--auto soap.  In center--auto water.  On left--auto dryer.  Other interesting feature, the button flush toilet can't be accessed with lid up.  So ladies, you are guaranteed the seat will be down,  Dry is separate question.
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Arrived Glasgow on schedule, etc.  Short taxi ride to the Glasgow Flats where "manager" met us with keys.  Apparently they have several properties.  Seemed like some permanent residents and short term rentals for the rest of the lofts.  Very nice upgraded one bedroom.  Roomy and combo washer/dryer in the kitchen.  Jack took charge of  laundry.  We did have some done after a week on the cruise - I forgot to say. Didn't get back on time and then a couple days later they called to ask if  we got it???  Only real issue in the flat was very, very high tub. Hard for me, let alone Jack  to get in.

JACK SEZ:  Tub is what we found to be UK standard. Long, high tub.  No real shower enclosure, just wing at front.  No hand holds.  I learn a sit and pivot technique but never very confident with it.  Flats are what we would call condos.  These were very new and upscale.  Combo washer/dryer took very small load.  Control system so complex--profiles for any kind of condition-- that I never really mastered it.  No such thing as put in load, push button, get wash/dry.  My first experience with combo unit.  Cycle time was very long, partly I think because of delay to be sure water was out before switching to dry cycle.  Interesting that this new, upscale unit had only hot water radiator heat.  No air conditioning.  Based on temp while we were any where in Scotland, cooling not a problem. 
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Another thing is that they do not have outlets that can take hairdryers in the bathrooms so have to dry hair in bedroom or hallway.  I guess it is a safety thing but the mirror is in the bathroom!  Although we had borrowed an electric adapter, it didn't fit into the outlets on the ship because the sockets were encased in this deep plastic casing.  The flat gave us separate rooms. Jack took living room to work on laundry, stretch out on sofa and fall asleep in front of tv.  Closed caption is not a given in the UK either.  Anyway we were very cozy in our flat.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Brugges on Tueday

The port for Brugges is Zeebrugge which is about an hour away.  When you get to Brugges the "depot" for the tour buses is quite a distance from the center of the city-- about 20-30 minute walk.  Nice walk, but far.

Brugges is a wonderful medieval city with a wonderful canal, very old architecture, etc. It's a UNESCO Heritage Site.  To be honest, would like to see it sometime!  So many people.  I just think dumping a couple thousand people into the city from a cruise ship just doesn't work although they try to control numbers with the walk from the buses, etc.

I don't think a thousand people ever lived here in its heyday.  Lines to get into church, on canal boat, etc. Streets jammed shoulder to shoulder.  Many, many gift shops all selling the same things - chocolates, lace primarily.  Everything opened in Brugges!  It was just too much for me.  Jack picked out a great restaurant -- that was empty by the way.  We shared Belgian waffle and asparagus soup.  Another couple from ship came in. Tasted their fries and mussels.  They were from Hudson, FL and have been on over 30 cruises and in Brugges 4 times.  Ugh, I just don't get that.  They of course recognized Jack because of scooter.  I swear we could have sold 100 of them while on this trip.  Everybody noticed it and thought it was a great idea.

JACK SEZ:  On the ship and in every place--including NYC--people came to ask about the scooter, cost, do you need license, etc.  Were surprised to learn how cheap.  The old Belgium block streets were hard to walk and very rough for me to ride.  Still, larger wheels were much better than usual little wheels on handicap scooter.  Streets jammed to point of discomfort.  Our tour merely transported from port and dumped for walking tour.  We could not do part of tour because it went across tiny bridge with STEPS.   I later observed that city buses were very well equipped for boarding with scooter.  My guess, we could have boarded local bus at terminal.  Enjoyed better and much faster tour.  But didn't see that until later and then problem was what to pay with.  Would have saved Kas a LOT of walking and crowd stress.  Still very interesting old town, could have been built by Disney.

We waited a very long  time for the bus to go back to the ship and then long ride back. Guide was all about Belgium's role in European Union, etc. We found it a very tiring day.

Cherbourg after Cork

Cherbourg on Monday, May 12. Day began with United Kingdom customs boarding ship to check passports so we would not have to do when we not to Harwich.  Although they seemed to be organized, we waited in line for an hour.  I don't think passengers followed rules about designated times for people on each deck etc.  What a mob and only 2 people doing the checking.

JACK SEZ--  I think it was poorly managed, probably is a mini-vacation for the customs folk.  There were a couple thousand passports, but they had been in hands of ship since boarding.  Customs  probably boarded at Cork.  Had a day to review the passports--pick those who needed review.  Very little reason to meet others.  Instead, the tied most of us up for several hours of the brief time in port.  Other hand at Harwich we simply left the ship.  Only delay would be baggage pickup--there was no inspection.  So, if most had to wait for luggage, what was saved by on board passport review?
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Anyway, going ashore wasn't allowed until the afternoon anyway. Terminal is very old and very hard managing disembarkation with scooter.  Cherbourg is very small and -- guess what-- things closed on Monday! Could walk from the ship to downtown.  Took city/countryside tour which may not have been best choice.  Others went to Omaha Beach.  Apparently there was a great aquarium/ocean museum at the port.  That's probably what we should have done.

However, again beautiful countryside, cloudy and raining on and off.  Went to chateau with beautiful gardens. I swear it was the model for France pavilion at Epcot.   A few other sites in the city. Center of town all torn up.   The big business is nuclear energy which is apparently very controversial because plants are spoiling the view.  Our guide very disturbed about the impact on his bicycle rides.  Not very exciting.  Jack feeling better but not up to speed.

JACK SEZ-- Kas over concerned about me.  My problems was very difficult ramps only to learn that could not take scooter on the tour bus. Port people clueless about where I could park scooter.  AND stores closed, so I was pretty much stuck on the bus.  We should have hired cab for hour or two, spent rest of time at the museum which was just across the quay from where we docked.  Mostly the guides are not much help to me.  With my hearing, I can't understand their accent.  Guide book & taxi is the answer.

On the other side, first stop Cobh, Ireland

The following Sunday, May 11 we reach land!  Arrive in Cobh, Ireland which is the port for Cork and Blarney Castle.  Cobh means cove.

 JACK SEZ: Pronucitatian, according to Wiki, Cobh is a Gaelicisation of the English name Cove and it shares the same pronunciation but has no meaning in the Irish language.  So it was/is the cove/harbor for Cork

Cobh is very picturesque and people very friendly.  They made the old ship terminal a museum that is really great.  Cobh was the departure point for almost all Irish immigrants to US and other parts.  Really well done displays and personal stories.  Titanic also sailed from here and Lusitania survivors were brought here.

We then had private van and tour guide to take us to Cork and Blarney.  We were a little surprised.  We didn't know that we had signed up for private van/guide but it worked out.  The guide was a little weird and seemed in conflict with the driver.  We probably would have done just fine with him alone.  Jack didn't get on and off the van much anyway.  Hillls are not conducive to scootering and just so many churches you want to see. Rained on and off all day.

  JACK SEZ:Although van was modern and specially designed for handicap transport, if was very difficult to load/unload because it was so high that a lift was required instead of ramp as was encountered everywhere else, including trains.  It was over engineered. Like cargo plane, everthing, including seats could be removed or changed.  We found the expectation was that the handicapped person would ride in the wheelchair, scooter, whatever.  That works on Disney buses, but they have excellent tie-downs and special seat belts for those who stay in their chair.  We never encountered that and I only rode on trike once.  Without the seat belt, there is a real danger of getting bounced out of chair.   Older hotels and some museums had handicap lifts.

Anyway, countryside is just beautiful.  It does seem greener here.  The grounds around Blarney Castle are so pretty although very windy while we were there.  The castle is indeed very, very, very old and sits on a very steep but small hill.  Jack limited to bottom walkway.  They have plenty of room to do something about that by the way.  I did not kiss the Blarney Stone.  Not waiting in line, number one - and I don't know that I could get up and down even with help.

 JACK SEZ:  Here I learned to park and wait while Kas visited places inaccessible for me.  Also learned that I had to look busy.  Otherwise, folks assumed I needed help and stopped to offer.  I found that, "waiting for wife" was readily understood and evoked sympathy of all.  AS TO THE STONE, how do you know its the real stone & WHO KISSED LAST?  Despite fact that this is major attraction there was little effort to capitalize on tourists.  They had cut a couple very large trees in front of castle.  In US, some entrepreneur would saw them into blocks to sell as souvenirs.  No such enterprise here.  
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Obligatory stop at the world's largest Irish store, etc.  Had a very nice lunch.  We both seem a little out of sorts.  Blaming it on 7 days at sea and not quite having our land legs under us.  Really could not find anything to buy in the store.  Need for Irish woolens is not high in Florida.  Did get a Christmas ornament of lucky elf and a lightweight knitted scarf. Time allotted for the stop was too long.

Drove through Cork on way back to ship.  Nice city, beautiful river Lee.  Lots of colleges and pharmaceuticals are the major industry. Seems to be many young people but quiet because Sunday.  Rang the bells of Shandon which is some tradition that I didn't quite get.

JACK SEZ:  I have tried to work with Kas re bell ringing traditions.  WIKI SEZ:  The church is noted for its 8 bells[1] due to the song "The Bells of Shandon" by Francis Sylvester Mahony.[2] The largest weighs a little over 1.5 tons and created by Rudhall of Gloucester. To reduce vibration, they were placed in a fixed position. They first rang on December 7, 1752. They have been recast twice: in 1865 and 1906.[1] Today, visitors can climb to the first floor and ring the bells themselves.[3]
The original inscriptions are retained on each bell:
  • When us you ring we'll sweetly sing
  • God preserve the Church and King
  • Health and prosperity to all our benefactors
  • Peace and good neighbourhood
  • Prosperity to the city and trade thereof
  • We were all cast at Gloucester in England by Abel Rudhall 1750
  • Since generosity has opened our mouths our tongues shall sing aloud its praise
  • I to the Church the living call and to the grave do summon all
Nice way to suggest a hit at the collection plate.
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There was a Hindu family engaged in some religious ceremony of theirs in this Catholic church.  No one seemed to know how/why it was going on.

Then back to Cobh.  As we passed by the cathedral, we saw this "procession".  Again, no info from guide but looked like St. Mary thing-maybe May day??   Quite an interesting mix of people attending.  Even this little town seems very multicultural.

 JACK SEZ:  Here and most other places in UK you can sense the resentment related to influx from other parts of UK.  Survey showed 55% of UK citizens want fewer immigrants entering the country, with just 6% saying more immigration should take place.  The argument is that immigrants are essential to offset the effect of an aging population, but many resent the competition for jobs and increased burden on public services.  Other hand, for example, the economic incentives for migration to the UK from Poland are significant – Polish families are able to increase their living standard by as much as four times by moving to the UK. Families from Romania and Bulgaria can increase their incomes by eight and nine times respectively by taking a job at the minimum wage in the UK.  As you will see, we talked with some.
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Back on ship and send off by local band and young Irish dancers, etc.  Really nice.  Just a reminder to myself the entertainment on board that night was Classical Graffiti- 3 violins/bass player.  So good.

 JACK SEZ: I was always looking to see how they doubled up or stinted on entertainment.  Answer is NEVER.  Quality was always good, variety uprising, and offered many places.  Probably, next in ship objectives to food. 

First stop Boston

Sunday, May 4. Made it to Boston, 1711 miles and about 3 1/2 days. Time ashore was limited because Captain wanted to get ahead of storm. We took the short city trolley tour of the usual sites. It's not really that big of a city. Got to MIT but not Harvard for some reason. Highlight was lunch at the Union Oyster House. Very historical. Claim to be the oldest continuous running restaurant in US. Revolutionary War soldiers were paid here so George Washington was actually probably within the walls. Usuals were wonderful -- clam chowder, lobster roll. Then around the corner to spend a little time at Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. Lots of people although didn't see many while we were on the tour - Sunday I guess. Big excitement was a group of orthodox Jews who were, believe it or not, protesting Israel's takeover of Palestinian land. Shouting that it was against the Torah. So back on-board by 3PM and we were off across the Atlantic. Weather is cool.

JACK SEZ:   Union Oyster House is not tourist trap.  Obviously gets heavy business from locals and that is justified by food.  Aside from lavish old bar, it is mostly worn out, seedy, place for food, not fashion.  Aside from boarding in Tampa, where multi-switchback ramp was very smooth, this was first test of travel with trike.  Ramp was not as well aligned as Tampa.  In long climbs or steep transition, I may need good "run" or push.  Not lack of power but front wheel drive loses traction.  Found that trike will fit in luggage compartment under big buses by folding steering post.  Dis-assembly not required.  Gave me confidence that it would not be problem for trip.  That was good fortune, because I later discovered that the draw-latch I designed to allow easy uncoupling of front and rear for storage in car turn, was sprung.  Probably hit a "jump" too hard.  By good fortune, the latch was not lost. Fell off when removing from bus on return.  Problem was overcome later.  Trike was critical to me.  While I can walk a few blocks with canes, it is slow and requires lots of care if surfaces are rough.  Without it, I would probably take half-hour to walk the switchback gangplanks, etc. to bus and then would be limited in museums and similar.  Also first encounter with old sidewalks--brick, cobblestone, etc. Some are real problem.  Here and most places later, there were handicap curb-cut ramps.   THEY are critical because not too hard to roll trike down a curb, but takes two of us and some real care to pull it up a curb.  Later, I will add more explanation of trike experience because it played big role in our ability to enjoy travel.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

The cruise

THIS IS CATHERINE'S BLOG. JACK HAS BEEN INVITED TO POKE IN COMMENTS THEY WILL BE IN FORM: "JACK SEZ--" See links to pictures to go with blogs

JACK SEZ-- THE ENTOURAGE: JACK AND CATHERINE (Kas) collectively, "Jackas" AND EQUIPAGE: Jack's electric 3-Wheel mobility trike, with handlebar bag. Rolling luggage: 2 (1 large, 1 small) One shoulder bag per person

April 30 - May 14 Departed Tampa on the Brilliance of the Seas under cloudy skies so unable to see much of Skyway bridge on our way out of Tampa Bay. Room was very nice but scooter did not fit through stateroom door.
JACK SEZ-- Balcony stateroom was important to me. Thought of sailing with cigar, drink, good book was luxuriant. That would have been possible up to this sailing, when smoking on balcony was forbidden. Apparently, some ass hung a flammable garment on balcony which was ignited by errant spark. Smoking privileges denied hence and for all.
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Had to leave scooter parked and plugged to charge near elevator/staircase, but it was nearby. Also did not fit in hallways when laundry carts, etc. are in hallways (which is most of the time). Meant taking elevator near us to non-stateroom floor, going across ship and then down the elevator where all the common area things were. The ship decor, furnishings all very nice. Large buffet, smaller snack bar in solarium and little cafe near pool, several bars, 4 specialty restaurants, large theater. Most of the trip, open air deck chairs were stacked away because of wind, etc. but could sit in the covered-over areas around the pool and in the solarium. Lots and lots of windows everywhere so the ship seems open and outdoorsy even when inside. Basically, generally pleased. Schooner bar became our to-go place. Jack found a couple convenient places to smoke. Not generally allowed anywhere outdoors which was kind of surprising.

Eating: We usually had breakfast and lunch at the buffet almost everyday and dinner in the dining room. 8:30 seating with only the 2 of us at table for 12. No one else ever showed up. A little weird but OK by us. Many tables were large parties traveling together and a very strange lady traveling alone at a nearby table that created a rukus at every meal. Waiter said we should stay where we were and enjoy our meals, drinks although maitre'd did offer to move us late in the cruise. Lots of variety in food and everything was nicely presented in both places. I fell in love with the cold fruit soups as my appetizer every evening. Shrimp cocktail also very good. All bread in all places was just wonderful. Typically more food than we could finish. Service was excellent all round. We also ate in the steakhouse one night (veal chop and lamb chops). Very, very good and the Italian restaurant another night. Also very good.
JACK SEZ-- One nice touch of service in group and boat so large-- If we ordered bottle of wine, the unused part would be saved and served at next meal in dining room--even if it had to be carried several decks after we ate in specially restaurants.
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Things to do: Very disappointed that the water color classes were full. Did do napkin folding which was fun. Bingo was $32. Played twice with no luck. Did win door prize-- travel wallet which really is a good thing. Lots of trivia matches -- I don't get it but lots of people into them--tournaments, etc. One problem is the content is American and European so there were lots of questions that out of knowledge base of half the people half the time. Other activities but not very interesting to us. Most passengers Floridians. Many, many experienced cruisers - heard that one couple had gone on over one hundred. Over 30 not unusual. About 400 staying on after London to continue another 2 weeks to Russia.

Went to a couple of photography lectures and the lectures on ports of call. All so-so. Actually don't know where the time went. We weren't that busy doing anything in particular. Not really too much to do outdoors because of wind and a little chilly. I walked decks while Jack smoked. Needed to have sweater or jacket most days. Really strange to us that art auctions were big deal. Very nice shops too. Spa also a big deal but we didn't get into it.

Entertainment: All entertainment was great.
JACK SEZ-- I was surprised at the theater which probably seats 1,200 with one balcony. Exceptional facility disappearing orchestra pit, many variations of stage segment heights & scenery.
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The cruise cast in their "extravaganzas" and shows in the Centrum were just great. Lots of variety in shows, costumes, etc. Also had guest performances from comedy to magic to singers, etc. All very good as well. There is music everywhere, violin trio, great guitarist, dance music, piano bar, etc. Of course, we passed through the casino almost every time we went somewhere. It got to be Jack's "toll" to play a hand of blackjack in order to pass through.
JACK SEZ-- Centrum was 6 story atrium.  One night they had "swoop-on-drape" performers there. Surprising cost in equipment and performers for just one night.
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Ports of call: Boston; Cork,Ireland; Cherbourg, France; Brugges, Belgium. Getting on and off with scooter was challenging because of steepness of ramps and slippery surfaces. But, accommodating and try to be of assistance although some concern by crew if they have to help lift or push. I don't blame them. I am sure they don't want to be hurt.

JACK SEZ-- Sometimes had to take fast "run" at steep slope or juncture. Hit one so hard it sprung the quick disconnect draw latch I had designed to allow easy dis-assembly of scooter to fit in car trunk. Fortunately, we only had to do that 3 times and were able to jigger the sprung latch in place with a few minutes extra patience. Still, I was always apprehensive I'd break in half--especially in rough cobble stone streets such as Brugges. Guide there was surprised to learn that we called such streets "Belguim Block."Was not able to tell what they called them.  Probably, "Roman Blocks."
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Other info: 1711 miles Tampa to Boston. 2790 miles from Boston to Cork, Ireland. Passed where the Titanic sank. Lost an hour of time every day which is a little weird. Daylight until almost 10PM and dawn at 5. Left Boston early to get ahead of front. It's not a straight line across the Atlantic because of protected zones for whales and iceberg areas. 2100 passengers and staff from all over the world which makes it interesting.

JACK SEZ--TV had a channel that gave constant updates of speed, course, weather, depth of ocean --with visual course track.  One night, about 3, when we were due south of Greenland, we did some short maneuvering--obviously to avoid something. First officer was at meet-the-crew lecture next day.  I asked if we were avoiding iceberg. That got rather excited reaction. Think icebergs are no-no for conversation.  He said Captain would not come in 50 miles of ice--other than in drink. He didn't know about the maneuvering, but allowed they would do that routinely to avoid fishing boats.
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Our guys: Kamal from Turkey and Mario from India were waiters in dining room, Catalan from Romania was our bartender in Schooner bar, Alex our cabin attendant was from Nicaragua and Blair from Jamaica was bartender in the theater. Captain of the ship was from Greece. Jack had rash and swelling in his legs so went to MD. $120. We thought bites, MD thought just skin irritation from the swelling so elevating legs. No recliner like at home is part of the problem. By May 11 we were being warned about nano-virus so hand-washing etc even more than we had been.
JACK SEZ --At most meals--instead of usual dispensers--they had greeters offering hand sterilizer like holy water.  Crew everywhere wiping hand rails. Still, almost practical impossibility for me to keep hands, cane and scooter handles clean all at same time while avoid grab rails in restrooms, for example.
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They changed buffets so you pointed and someone served rather than everyone touching spoons etc. Jack and I both with some GI problems as leaving ship-we almost made it. I used patches so no seasickness. I think I would have been without them because there were a few rocky days. We thought captain did great job of avoiding the worst of a major storm by sailing from Boston a few hours early.