Sunday, June 15, 2014

Edinburgh May 19,20 (Mon and Tues)

Fun that doorman and concierge are in kilts at the hotel.

May 19:  Breakfast in hotel's Hadrian cafe was disappointing.  They really push buffets which are just too hard with canes and too much to eat and about $30.  We ordered from menu but think they served us from buffet rather than cooked fresh.

JACK SEZ:   This buffet or menu problem proved to be consistent even when we got to NYC. I may explore it after blog is published.
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Did our usual city tour. Just a block walk to get to it.  Guy playing bagpipes to entertain the tourists.  One tour line refused to board the scooter.

Very, very old city. Again, love the architecture. Even more blackened buildings. Can't clean because old sandstone is so fragile and soot is holding it together.  Funny that "new" side of Edinburgh was built in 1700s as opposed to 1300s on the old side.  Just imagine! I love this place.  Have to come back.

JACK SEZ:   For me, in same way as Glasgow, I just love to look at old detailed buildings and see how they are used now.
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Got off bus at the castle and took a break for lunch.  Great little pub.  Waiter was Polish.  It is the  largest ethnic group next to the Scots, then Pakistanis. Eastern Europeans also big deal in London.  Immigration a big, hot issue as is Scotland independence from England. Vote in the fall.  Anyway, consider that meal in the pub was my best.  Sausages, mashed potatoes and peas.  Just hit my switch.

Then the climb.  The castle is built out of this very high mountain - Castle Hill.  Very steep medieval streets with cobblestones to get up to it but Jack made it to the entry gate (the castle is still a fort). There, they had a van meet us.  Boarded the scooter and took us through this tunnel in the mountain used for supplies, etc as well as accessibility.  The tunnel lead to the very top of the castle hill and then we made our way down.  Going against the crowd needless to say.  Memorial to Scottish soldiers, the chamber of Mary, Queen of Scots, etc, Scottish crown jewels among other things. All very impressive and spectacular views.  Hard for Jack to get into the small places but they were very accommodating. Would probably do audio tour next time.  I should have gone to main entrance so we had our bearings better.
JACK SEZ:   Braking on downhill, slippery cobblestones is a concern.  Not for me but for the folks in front of me who decide to stop.  People don't have stoplights.  By now, I have learned to watch their feet because a turn of the foot is the first indicator of change of direction.  Other hand, no one seems to worry about getting hit.  My chant on the ship and later is TIRES DON'T MIND TOES--BUT TOES DON'T LIKE TIRES.  Up this point, I only ran over toes once --excluding Catherine,  She often holds doors. Usually stands on wrong side and was nipped a few times.
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Made our way down the castle very carefully.  Then just kept on going right down the Royal Mile that goes directly to Holyrood House, which leads to the Queen's castle at the other end.  Unable to get in because Prince Edward there for some ceremony. If the royal family there, no visitors.  Great downhill walk, lots and lots of touristy shops and cafes, lots of  locals.  We made it all the way across bridge that lead right to hotel.  Pooped to say the least but had a little rest and only going to Number One for dinner.  It's 5 star Michelin rated restaurant in the hotel.  Very posh and pricey.  Just not my kind of place.  More about the way it looks than the way it tastes I think.  Very well presented but just didn't hit our switch.  Maybe too tired.  My duck and Jack's beef not our thing.  Lots of amuse bouche, etc.
JACK SEZ:   I may also discuss this later in detail.  I consider it a place where object is to showoff the chef--not the food, e.g. Kas duck plate was an extravaganza with several versions of duck.  Problem only one even tasted like duck.  To much to explain, but my steak had been attacked by chef in various ways--including horizontal slicing, that defeated my expectations.
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May 20 Tues.  Walked to the royal art museum which was simply fabulous and so beautiful.  So much good stuff, red tapestry walls in some rooms.  Just loved it.  Had a little break at cafe overlooking the park that was between hotel and museum.  Jack taking to hot chocolate rather than deal with coffee that never seems to taste right.  Funny, my sister and I did Europe tour in early 70s and our complaint was bad coffee and bad beef.  That hasn't changed.
JACK SEZ:   They make "American" coffee cup-by-cup with and espresso machine--never works.  Beef is not quality we are used to.  ALSO, they simply do not broil any meat.  Comes out more like poached than broiled.
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We then walked to Portrait Museum which is another beautiful building.  Only so many kings, queens, etc. that we can take and I can't keep straight BUT there was a photography exhibit of portraits that was phenomenal.We like just roaming city streets and seeing what turns up. May miss stuff that way but also see some things that aren't on the city tour.  Made it back to hotel easily for another "nap" after a stop in department store to get Jack long-sleeved wool v-neck.  His sweater vest is not cutting it.  He put on both with the coat I told him was too heavy to take! Also dropped into a few other places.

Got theater tickets for "Pressure" from concierge.  Excellent play, very nice theater. Sat in a box at back of main floor. Lots of space reserved for handicapped.  Play about meteorologist advising Eisenhower on D-Day.  Very good true story.  He was Scottish of course.

Had sent out laundry (very expensive) that was returned in gift box with tissue paper. Packed up to get ready to leave.  Would spend more time here definitely.  Felt we just skimmed the surface of Edinburgh.
JACK SEZ:   Definitely enjoyable.  Laundry, here and other upscale places is so expensive that it would  probably be cheaper to buy the socks and undies that I wear.


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