Wednesday, June 18, 2014

London May 22-26 Left on 5/27

May 22 Thursday. Train from York to London.  Arrived about 7PM at the Kings Crossing Station.  Seemed to be on the edge of town but we couldn’t tell.  Didn’t see city skyline from train as we approached London.  Not much help available but we managed to get to taxi line(s).  It was hard to tell what the system was.  Seemed too willing to ignore us.  Finally taxi that appeared to think we were next in line.  Reluctant until we said we were going to Trafalgar Square for hotel. He did not have screw driver to lower the taxi ramp.  Jack had to provide his.  Some struggles because just not familiar, we held up line.
Not that far to hotel.  Club Quarters on Northumberland Avenue at Trafalgar Square.  Had lift in middle of front steps for wheelchairs.  Gorgeous lobby with bar/ restaurant right up front.  Also had a upscale pizza restaurant.  Room was a little tight but very nice and great view!  Just went down to the bar for great drinks and munchies.
JACK SEZ:  This is yet another RR hotel modernized.  Club Quarters is interesting idea offering Members hotels in US & UK. http://clubquarters.com/about
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May 23 Friday.  Got an early start.  Can’t believe what a great location!  Stopped at place for breakfast just a couple doors down.  So-so, kind of like a Denny’s and it is a chain.  Very slow service.  Another block and we were across Trafalgar Square and at tour bus office.  Turns out we were in time for walking tour to see changing of the guard.  Didn’t know exactly what walking tour meant, but it really turned out great.  Quite a big group to keep together for quite a long walk.  These groupings do help to spread out the crowds a little.  Great guide. Sights along the way, but started things at St. James Palace and followed “troops” along to Buckingham Palace.  Packed with people.  Guide helped Jack lift scooter up a few steps to the viewing area.  If he stood up on scooter, he could see over everyone's heads. After a while the guide was moving the group somewhere for something.  We said we were going to stay.  When we were ready to leave later, realized there were steps at BOTH ends of place we were.  Jack randomly selected young, strong looking guy to get the scooter down the steps.  We then walked back to Trafalgar Square.  Decided to do museums there.  Very confusing trying to make our way to elevators and main restaurant in the Royal Art Museum.  Frustrating.  Coffee shop guy told us food in the café was the same thing so went there.  Beautiful and great meal.  Seemed to struggle with Bloody Mary request.  Started with yummy asparagus in lemony sauce with tiny potatoes.  I had gnocchi in more lemon butter and Jack had maybe lamb??     I was told not take pictures of the help. Don’t know what that was all about.   We did just a little more of this museum but I think we were too tired.   After lunch went to Portrait Galley.  Had to go through side door, not very inviting.  Again think we were tired. Meant to go back but didn't make it.

May 24, Saturday.  Able to get one of the 3 tour route buses right in front of hotel.  Just made the rounds.   Went to hotel to rest and for dinner before going to play. Can't remember what we had to eat at all but it was good and a beautiful restaurant.   Able to easily walk to theater near Charing Cross in West End.  It was “Handbaggers” written by a woman about what “might” have transpired between Queen Elizabeth and Margaret Thatcher’s weekly meetings over 11 years.  2 women playing them at the time, 2 other women playing them as older and reminiscing, and 2 guys who played a variety of roles including Nancy Reagan and Thatcher’s husband.  Many jokes that the Brits got and we didn’t.  BUT it was really good.  Had ice cream at the interval that they sell in little cups from a cold box hanging around the neck of the guy standing in front of the stage.  Easily walked back to hotel. Think we had pizza in hotel restaurant this night.  Italian was the first language for everyone.  Could not get bartender to understand martini and manhattan.  Vermouth was not a word he understood.  A full day.
 JACK SEZ: No suprise that hotel had "Pizza" restautrant that turned out to be full scale Italian restaurant.  BIG SUPRISE, that staff mostly spoke Italian!  Tried to order Martini.  Barman came out could not understand what Vermouth is--although Sweet is Italian.  Settled for Vodka neat.
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May 25, Sunday.   Beautiful day and Jack was right – need to do the Thames boat ride.  Easy walk from hotel to the Thames, BUT, there was a diabetes research race fundraiser.  Unable to cross street.  Had to walk along the race to Parliament.  Then told to go into the Underground and take the tunnel to the dock which we did.  Thank goodness we had expedited ticket with the tour bus ticket to get through the crowds.  Great trip, lots of crowds everywhere - finally some sun I think was major factor.  After the boat ride, made our way to a great little pub.  Guy explained our problems with Bloody Marys.  Have to ask specifically for “full” otherwise it is just tomato juice and vodka – kind of yucky  without the spices and trimmings.  Then on to Westminster which is very close. No pictures inside.  York is better I think but royalty and other famous persons buried here.  So crowded.  Can’t take pictures because no one would move.  They give free audio tours. I think they are to keep the crowds moving.  The cathedral is something however.  Queen Elizabeth I buried  on one side and Queen Mary on the other, Coronation Chair, Poets Corner – wow.  Then walked up this street looking for coffee.  Lead to a department store and then to a tobacco store where Jack got Cuban cigars.  Yum!  Then walk back to hotel.  Great day.  Dinner in hotel restaurant.  Good but not memorable.  Don't remember what we ate.  Very nice room.   Wanted to go to Sherlock Holmes pub across the street one night but sooooo crowded. Bus tour guide had recommended it. Another full day.
JACK SEZ: If you are ever going to be awestruck, it will surely be Westminster Abby with Parliament next door.  The weight of history is almost palpable.  Tidbit--last major reconstruction of Parliament (completed about 1470) was 1910.  Some of the giant oak timbers needed replacement but they were unable to find trees more that 2-300 years old.  Finally, they check the estate where the original timbers had been harvested.  NO PROBLEM, when originals were cut, new oaks were planted in anticipation of need for replacement.  So they were ready to cut after 600 years growth.  Only the English and probably only a system with protected nobility can produce such results.
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May 26, Monday.  Took a different tour bus to get to Victoria and Albert Museum.  It’s wonderful.  Had a great day looking at a lot of stuff for a couple of hours. Great section on the theater arts (costumes, set design) and incredible tapestries.  Rested and dressed up for our final night in the UK.  Taxi to Royal Opera House for ballet.  What can I say.  One of the highlights of the  trip.  Had dinner in the Balconies which is the restaurant in what used to be Covenant Gardens (as in My Fair Lady).  We had to place our orders when we made the reservation while still in Tampa.  Dinner before the ballet (cod and bellini for me, lamb for Jack). Jack ordered martini when we got there.  Had to settle for vodka on the rocks.  Then dessert at the first interval (lemon pavlova for me and chocolate for Jack), and after dinner drinks at the second interval (drambuie for Jack, I think I passed so I wouldn't pass out).  The ballet was breathtaking.  Seranade was the first - Balanchine, Sweet Violets was second (based on Jack the Ripper, the bed should have been a principal in the ballet, and then DGV Danse a grande Vitesse.  I can't even begin to describe.  It literally took your breath away - fast paced, drums, Minimalist music and a metaphor for movement (think trains) according to the program.  Just wonderful.
JACK SEZ: Lest I forget later.  We had chance to compare a few days later when we attended NYC Ballet.  Would have been wonderful if we had not seen Royal Ballet just before.  Royal had better program and --to my inexpert eyes--better talent.  That may be because each of the three acts at Royal was performed by different ballet company.  I know little about ballet, just watch with same fascination that comes from staring at a fire.

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